Untangling the symbolism: the link with Freemasonry in the antique jewelry

This 19th-century French brooch, dating from the Romantic Victorian period, depicts two sphinxes guarding a star sapphire, probably inspired by mythology and Freemasonry. Made of 18-carat yellow gold, it is adorned with 26 old brilliant-cut diamonds and 47 rose-cut diamonds. The central star sapphire weighs approximately 7 to 8 carats and displays a light blue opacity. It is also set with eight rubies and a pearl. This piece, lacking a maker's mark, bears the "924" stamp, probably an internal workshop number, and the French 18-carat gold hallmark, represented by an eagle's head. A mysterious and symbolic masterpiece of its time.

Group of antique jewelry objects: brooch

Condition: excellent condition
- (more info on our condition scale)

Country of origin: France

Style: Victorian - Victorian decorative arts refer to the style of the decorative arts of the Victorian era. This period is known for its eclectic revival and interpretation of historical styles, as well as for the introduction of cross-cultural influences from the Middle East and Asia into furniture, accessories, and interior decoration. Victorian design is widely regarded as having shown a regrettable excess of ornamentation. The Arts and Crafts movement, the Aesthetic movement, the Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau all have their origins at the end of the Victorian era.
- See also: Victorian or more information on styles

Style specifics: The Romantic Victorian period - Experts divide the reign of Queen Victoria, also called the Victorian era (1837 - 1901), into three periods of about twenty years each: the Romantic Victorian period (1837 - 1860), the Grand Victorian period (1860 - 1880), and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian period (1880 - 1901).

We consider this period to belong to the Romantic Victorian period. This period covers the coronation of Victoria as Queen of Great Britain and Ireland, her marriage to King Albert, their love and devotion to their marriage and country, which were sources of inspiration. The jewelry of this period is made with intricate carvings, special techniques where enamel is subtly worked. These techniques allowed the jewel to have a certain opulence with less precious metal. Precious metals were very rare at this time. The most prized (semi-)precious stones of this era are amethyst, coral, garnets, cultured pearls, and turquoise. The connotation is obviously sentimental, symbolic, and romantic, with motifs reminiscent of the Gothic and/or Renaissance style, and abundant use of motifs such as anchors, birds, branches, crosses, hearts, and snakes.

Period: circa 1860
- (events and facts of this period, poetry of this period, fashion of this period)

Source of inspiration: mythology and perhaps Freemasonry

Theme: A star sapphire guarded by two sphinxes

Material: 18-carat yellow gold
- (more info on precious metals)

Additional information: The Sphinx – Greek mythology tells the story of Oedipus (a king of Thebes) and his confrontation with the Sphinx in his quest for truth. The Sphinx had the head and chest of a woman, the body of a lion, the tail of a serpent, and the wings of an eagle. This monster posed to all Theban travelers this enigmatic question: “What creature with a voice walks in the morning on four legs, in the afternoon on two, and in the evening on three?” The Sphinx killed all those who gave a wrong answer. To know the correct answer by which Oedipus destroyed the Sphinx, you must consult Wikipedia :-)

Sphinx and Freemasonry: The image of the sphinx was also adopted in Masonic architecture. Among the Egyptians, sphinxes were placed at the entrance of temples to protect their mysteries, warning those who entered not to reveal the knowledge to the uninitiated. Champollion claimed that the sphinx successively became the symbol of each of the gods. The placement of the sphinxes expressed the idea that all the gods were hidden from the people and that their knowledge, kept in the sanctuaries, was revealed only to the initiates. As a Masonic emblem, the sphinx was adopted in its Egyptian character as a symbol of mystery and, as such, is often found sculpted in front of Masonic temples or engraved at the head of Masonic documents. However, it cannot properly be called an ancient and recognized symbol of the order. Its introduction is relatively recent, and more as a symbolic decoration than as a symbol of a particular dogma. (From: Wikipedia)

Greek hybrid creatures – A hybrid is a combination of two or more animal and/or human species. As strange as it may seem, the Greeks were fond of these creatures. They are found in the earliest myths and legends, and in many works of art. For the Greeks in particular, these imaginary beings must have had great importance, for they represented the wild forces of nature that opposed humanity. The seven best-known hybrids are:

The centaur - In Greek mythology and art, the centaur has the torso of a human combined with the body of a horse.
The cockatrice - this creature was also known as the basilisk (“king of serpents”), and its mere gaze could kill; the cockatrice was composed of a dragon’s tail and assorted poultry parts.
The giants (gigantes) - These fierce and frightening beings were the descendants of Gaia (the Earth).
The griffin - According to the myth, the griffin was a creature with the body of a lion attached to the head, wings, and claws of an eagle.
The harpy - The harpies had female torsos fused with vulture parts; the name harpy is derived from the Greek word meaning “snatcher.”
The satyrs (faun) - The satyrs were often companions of Dionysus, and these creatures were depicted in myth and art with goat legs and bestial natures.
The sirens - Women with the bodies of birds; the sirens were legendary for luring sailors by singing their enchanting songs.

Diamond(s): 26 old brilliant-cut diamonds with an estimated weight of ± 1.12 ct. (color and clarity: G/I, vs/i).
47 rose-cut diamonds. We do not have the weight of the diamonds, which is common in our profession for rose cuts.

- All diamond weights, color shades, and clarity are approximate as the stones are not removed from their settings to preserve the integrity of the mounting.

Gemstones: A star sapphire with an estimated weight between 7 and 8 ct. Color: light blue opacity. Treatment: unknown.
Eight rubies (laboratory-produced) (also called Verneuil rubies). The fact that these stones are laboratory-produced has no influence on the value of this jewel. Both natural rubies and laboratory-produced rubies were used at that time, more for their effects than for their intrinsic value. And one pearl.

- All colored stone weights are approximate as the stones are not removed from their settings to preserve the integrity of the mounting.

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or month stone) for April, ruby for July, sapphire for September, and pearl for June.
- (more info about birthstones)

Maker: no trace of maker's mark. Although we have not found any indication of the creator's identity, we are thinking of masters such as Froment Meurice, Fouquet, Wièse, or Falize.

Stamped: "924" which is very probably an internal workshop number

Hallmarks: The French control hallmark for 18-carat gold representing an eagle's head, which was used in France from around 1838.
- (more info about hallmarks)

Dimensions: 4.50 cm (1.77 inches) x 3.80 cm (1.50 inches)

Weight: 18.10 grams (11.64 dwt)