What is the difference between gold and platinum ?

Gold  white and THE platinum are both from the same family of precious metals. Their first difference lies in their composition : white gold also called “palladium white gold” is an alloy composed of 75% yellow gold, 10% copper and 15% palladium and covered with a layer of rhodium called “rhodiing” , while the platinum is a matter naturally white, almost pure because the metal reaches 95% in the alloy.

Then the second difference is their wear. Indeed, over time, a white gold jewel will tend to yellow by losing its rhodium coating. platinum as for it, faces another form of discoloration: it is its shiny finish which will deteriorate and thus the jewel will display a more matte patina.

Finally, another difference which is not the least; their price. The price of a precious metal is fixed according to its weight. The platinum Being a rarer and denser metal than gold, it is therefore generally more expensive than the latter for a jewel of equivalent volume. In addition, its cost is also explained by the longer working time spent in the workshop to work this metal when designing a jewel.

Indeed, their last difference is reflected in their properties. The malleability of gold makes it a metal that can be easily worked by artisan jewelers through techniques such as drawing or rolling, while the platinum is more difficult to work with.
 

History of the use of platinum 

 THE platinum was discovered in 1735 by Europeans, more precisely by Don Antonio de Ullon, a Spanish officer, who spoke of the platinum for the first time in his book “Historical relationship of the journey to Southern America”, that's why the name “platinum” comes from Spanish “platinum”, meaning "little silver”. It was later, in 1751, that he was then declaredbranded as a metal in its own right by Teophil Scheffer, a Swedish scientist. 

In 1780, Louis XVI, passionate about the platinum, decreed that it was the only metal worthy of kings. He then entrusted the goldsmith Marc-Étienne Janety with the creation of several pieces in platinum, thus marking the beginning of the craze for this precious metal. During this period, the platinum was mainly used for practical everyday objects: cutlery, services, watch chains.

The first use of the platinum in jewelry dates back to 1854, by the house Mellerio said Meller which he associates with gold andsilver; at that time the use of platinum is used mainly for setting stones.

In the 19th century, the use of platinum is gradually developing: Louis-François Cartier, pioneer of high jewelry, further popularized this material in the second half of the 19th century. This trend allowed the gradual abandonment of two-tone jewelry (withsilver for the upper part and gold for the lower part), for the benefit of an exclusive use of the platinum.

We also note the appearance of the garland style, born at the beginning of the 20th century, which coincides with the arrival of jewelry while platinum, decorated with diamonds and pearls, which are characterized as “White jewelryA key piece from this period is the "Kokoschnik" tiara by Cartier, dating from 1908, so called because it was inspired by the headdresses of Russian peasant women of the time which had become very fashionable at the Court of the Tsar of Russia.

Alongside its jewelry uses, the platinum also became a strategic material in other sectors, notably during the First World War where it was used for military purposes. In England, its trade with individuals was even temporarily prohibited, it was at this time that grey gold made its appearance, when the platinum is no longer available. 

From the beginning of the 20th century until the Second World War, the platinum gained popularity thanks to Hollywood productions, a phenomenon started in 1931 by the film "Platinum Blonde" by Frank Capra, which launched the myth of the "blonde platinum" played by Jean Harlow. However, during World War II, the platinum was requisitioned again for military use. It was only after the war that the platinum makes a triumphant return to jewelry, with geometric creations influenced by the style Art Deco from the years 1920-1935.

Features of the platinum

THE platinum is one of the densest precious metals, with a mass of 21.50 g/cm³, far surpassing the density of thesilver (10.50 g/cm³) and gold (19.30 g/cm³).

In addition to its density, the platinum is extremely malleable and has high heat resistance. It is one of the most difficult metals to work, due to its high melting point, located at around 1,770°C, which requires special attention from craftsmen and more working time.

To identify a jewel in platinum, you just need to spot one of these two guarantee hallmarks: a dog's head for French jewelry and a mascaron's head for those of foreign origin. Finally, as far as its maintenance is concerned, just like gold, the platinum can be cleaned simply with soapy water. Although it is more resistant to wear than other metals, it is still more sensitive to shocks.

Deposits of platinum

It is important to know that THE platinum is thirty times rarer than gold. It is extracted from alluvial sands and most often occurs in the form of steel-gray nuggets with small, rounded grains. Until 1825, it came only from South America. Today, its main deposits are located in South Africa and Russia.