How do I know if my pearl necklace is valuable?

Wondering if your pearl necklace is valuable or even if they are real pearls? Whether it is a family heirloom or even a recent acquisition, it is not always easy to determine the value of your pearls. This article is here to help you!
Learn the difference between cultured pearls and fine pearls, real pearls and imitations, the different colors of pearls, their formation, the role of orient and luster and more broadly the history of the pearl, from its birth to the present day! 

Cultured pearls and fine pearls

What is the difference between a fine pearl and a cultured pearl?

A fundamental difference that drastically influences the price of a pearl is its nature: fine or cultured.

To distinguish fine pearls and cultured pearls, both natural, it is not the whole of their external qualities that must be looked at but rather the composition of their interior and whether or not man has intervened in their production.

To learn more about the difference between cultured pearls and fine pearls, click here to read our article on this subject.

Fine pearls, increasingly rare pearls 

The popularity of fine pearls declined with the development of cultured pearls in Japan in the 1930s. To produce a pearl artificially, a mother-of-pearl core is introduced into the oyster. This organized competition is not without consequences since pearl fishing has gradually declined. Furthermore, due to pollution, today only one fine pearl is found in 7,000 to 8,000 oysters. Thus, fine pearls now represent only 1% of the public auction market, which makes them exceptional pieces often sold at high prices.
Among fine pearls, those that are most sought after are historical pearls. The pearl, given by Napoleon I to his second wife, Empress Marie-Louise, is estimated to be worth between 700,000 and 1.1 million Swiss francs (455.5 million to 650 million euros), which is around 1.2 million francs less than when it was put up for sale in 1988.

For diameters equivalent to 5 to 10 millimeters, it is possible to find fine pearl necklaces at prices between 10,000 and 20,000 euros. The difference between cultured pearls and fine pearls is especially felt on exceptional pieces. For example, a double-strand necklace of fine pearls sold for 3.5 million Swiss francs in November 2004 would only be worth 200,000 dollars if it were cultured pearls.

Here are some examples of auction results demonstrating the growing interest in these jewels:

Details of these sales: 

In 2010, a 46 cm long necklace, made up of fine pearls, arranged in a drop shape and measuring from 3.2 mm to 6.7 mm, was sold 3 500 euros. 

In 2015, a 46.5 cm long necklace, composed of 102 fine falling seawater pearls with a small 18K white gold shuttle clasp set with a diamond and two roses, with falling pearls of diameter from 2.9 to 6.7 mm, sold 4 600 euros. 

In 2020, a necklace of 82 fine pearls with diameters of 3.7-7.7 mm was sold 6 500 euros. Finally, in 2024, a necklace of fine pearls falling in diameter 3.0-7.4 mm with an 18K gold clasp was sold 7 872 euros.

How are pearl prices determined?

Once the distinction between fine pearl and cultured pearl has been made, the other criteria for assessment are as follows:
The value of a pearl is determined by several criteria. First of all, the size, the perfection of roundness and absence of pimples are essential. Regarding size, it is determined by the place in the mollusk's body where the pearls are formed. The most regular specimens are those found in the visceral body of the animal while baroque pearls most often develop near the abductor muscle.

Then, you have to observe theuniformity of texture and luster, that is, the shiny appearance that pearls naturally possess. The East, in other words the brightness produced by the reflections of the diffraction of light on the aragonite crystals. This Pearl brilliance, although subjective, also plays a crucial role in its valuation. It is not a single shade but rather a set of reflections from which a dominant one stands out. The main dominants of the orient are: pink orient, creamy white orient, ivory orient, champagne orient and white orient silvere.

For cultured pearls, the core shape is decisive. Pearls that form inside the body of the mollusc are called free pearls. Those that develop attached to the shell are called half pearls, blisters, mabés or mother-of-pearl pearls. Half pearls are considered intermediate products between mother-of-pearl and fine pearls.

Moreover, more the mother-of-pearl layer The thicker the pearl, the more beautiful its shine will be. However, if the core shines through a thin layer of nacre or if you observe the presence of a dark spot, then you are dealing with a poor quality pearl. Although the pearl is authentic, if it is of poor quality, it will deteriorate very quickly. 

The classification of cultured pearls

In order to define the quality of cultured pearls, specialists have developed a group of codes. Pearls with the AAA code are of high quality. Then, pearls qualified under the AA and A code are pearls of average quality, AA+ pearls being of better quality than AA. Finally, Tahitian pearls are classified as AD, D being reserved for low quality pearls.

The formation of cultured pearls

All cultured pearls, in other words fine pearls, come from a natural environment: “water”. In this environment live a variety of mollusks: Bivalves and the Gastropods. What differentiates these two species? Gastropods can produce calcareous concretions although the pearls they produce remain extremely rare. Bivalves, on the other hand, are mollusks that have a mother-of-pearl shell and can produce this soft and luminous way that is necessary for their growth. Concerning the creation of the pearl, it takes place when an irritant penetrates the shell of the mollusk. Indeed, once the irritant is in its shell, the Bivalve covers it with successive layers of mother-of-pearl, following the instructions of its DNA, until the pearl is formed. This process is a natural response of the organism to protect itself from what is foreign to it.

The colors of cultured pearls

Another important element is the color of the pearl. In fact, gray pearls are particularly popular. Thus, in 2011, Bergé & Associés sold a necklace of 49 fine grey pearls for 1.7 million Swiss francs. This price is explained in particular by the diameter of the pearls which was greater than 15 millimeters. 

The color of the pearls depends on several factors: the color of the lips, the nature of the oyster and the graft, the food, the temperature of the water and also the salinity of the water.

To facilitate their identification, pearls are grouped into large color categories. Here are the main ones:

• White pearls
• Black pearls
• The pearls silverées
• The golden pearls
• Lavender pearls
• Peach pearls
• The blue pearls

Furthermore, in the early 20th century, white pearls were considered the gold standard for cultured pearls, celebrated for their luster and purity. Black pearls, on the other hand, encountered resistance when they first hit the market. Indeed, Polynesian pearls were viewed with skepticism and deemed less authentic to enter the realm of fine jewelry.

However, artists and Parisian fashion quickly seized upon these unique pearls. Their distinctive character and large size allowed them to earn a place among the most fashionable and expensive pearls on the market. 

Among white pearls, there are three types: Akoya pearls, Freshwater pearls and Australian pearls.

Akoya pearls are generally white in color, although in reality pearls are never completely white. In fact, just like mother-of-pearl, they have iridescent reflections that vary depending on the angle and the light. This phenomenon of multiple reflections is called “Orient”. It is not a single shade but rather a set of reflections of which a dominant one stands out. The main dominants of Orient are: Orient pink, Orient cream white, Orient ivory, Orient champagne and Orient white silvere.

Putting together a necklace of around fifty pearls is therefore not an easy task since you have to find pearls that go together perfectly.

Freshwater pearls are composed entirely of mother-of-pearl produced by the mollusk. These pearls are the result of a graft but they are not nucleated, that is to say they do not have an artificial nucleus in their center. The silky appearance of these pearls comes from the homogeneous density of the mother-of-pearl.

Finally, Australian pearls, are saltwater, nucleated pearls. They are known for their thick, dense nacre and the presence of small metallic flakes. 

Where are cultured pearls produced?

THE Akoya pearls, white or cream, are produced in Japan.
THE Australian pearls are native to the southern seas. Their color varies betweensilverand the golden. 
There Tahitian pearl is also called “black pearl” although in reality its true color is a shade of green and gray.
Finally, the freshwater pearls come from the southern seas and are easily recognizable by their pink color.

Fake pearls or imitation pearls

The pearls of Majorca 

The pearls of Majorca, also known as Majorica pearls, are produced by the company Majorica SA, founded in 1890 on the island of Mallorca, Spain. These pearls are renowned for their quality and resemblance to natural pearls. Currently, it is estimated that the company Majorica SA has produced more than 2.5 million fake pearls.

Their manufacture involves a complex process where a glass or plastic core is covered with several layers of varnish or lacquer, obtained from synthetic and natural substances. This process manages to reproduce the shine as well as the texture of real pearls. This is why Majorcan pearls are extremely famous in the world of jewelry.

How to distinguish a fake pearl from a real one?

• Lightly rub the pearl on the sharp part of your teeth: if the jewel slides perfectly, it is very likely that the pearl is fake. The real pearl will have roughness as well as a slight squeaking sound.

• Rub the pearls together between your fingers. If you notice a slight friction, then they are real pearls.

• Pay attention to imperfections: Real pearls always have small imperfections in their shape.

A short history of the pearl

Pearls were first discovered in ancient times. Their use by humans goes back a long way since they were found in a tomb dating back to 5500 BC in the United Arab Emirates.

Furthermore, the first written records of pearls come from China and date back to 2300 BC. In these texts, pearls are depicted as a gift from nature. Other civilizations, such as India and Egypt, considered pearls to be beautiful and sacred gems. 

On the Greek side, pearls were already known in Greece. In reference to the goddess of love, they called them “tears of Aphrodite”, the white pearls being women's tears and the black pearls, men's tears. In Ancient Rome, pearls were a symbol of wealth and power. Not everyone had the right to wear them, they were reserved for certain ranks of society. Tradition dictated that the noblest families offer one to two pearls per year to their daughter so that when she came of age she would obtain a sumptuous pearl necklace.

In the Middle East, the pearl also has its importance. Indeed, for the Arabs and the Koran, the pearl is one of the most precious treasures provided by paradise. In the Persian Gulf, pearls were relatively abundant in oysters, which is why the Arabs, Persians and Assyrians discovered them very early. The natural beauty of this gem and the iridescent colors of its mother-of-pearl immediately seduced them. It was Alexander the Great who, during his conquest of the East from -334 to -325, popularized the pearl as a jewel in the West. Finally, pearl farming was discovered in the 20th century by the Japanese, marking the birth of the pearl. The main craftsman of this discovery is Kokichi Mikimoto.

Little anecdotes about the pearl 

Pearls, symbols of timeless natural beauty, have always been associated with divine creation in the cultures of pearl-producing regions. Myths have consistently considered them as divine gifts. This is why pearls were seen as endowed with supernatural powers, inherited from the deities. 

Thus, men began to seek them out not only for their beauty but also for the powers they believed these gems possessed. Pearls were cherished and revered and worn as jewelry or amulets as symbols of power. Moreover, pearls were not only used for adornment, they were also used for medical and superstitious purposes.

The pearl in art

Sandro Botticelli, The Birth of Venus, circa 1484-85, Tempera, Florence, Uffizi Gallery

In this painting by Botticelli, the pearl refers to the chastity of young girls because the pearl is a symbol of purity due to its natural perfection. Indeed, the pearl is the only gem that can be used without human intervention. Other precious stones need human intervention to reveal their beauty. This painting also echoes the legend in the West that says that the birth of the pearl is marked by the birth of Venus. 

Johannes Vermeer, Girl with a Pearl Earring, Circa 1665, oil on canvas, The Hague, Mauritshuis

In this masterpiece of Dutch painting, also called “the Mona Lisa of the North,” the pearl is represented here for its symbolism of purity, and also because by catching the light, it serves in the painting as an anchor point that guides the viewer's gaze towards the young girl's face.

Cleopatra and her pearl

A story told by Pliny the Elder features Cleopatra. Eager to seduce the Roman general Mark Antony, she invites him to feast on her ship with purple sails. Cleopatra does not hesitate to use all her fortune in order to impress the general. The latter then challenges the queen to spend ten million sesterces on a single banquet. The bet is taken and shortly after, Mark Antony is invited back to the queen's ship. However, although he is received lavishly, the luxury is not excessive and Mark Antony then thinks he has won his bet. Nevertheless, we must not forget the ingenuity of Cleopatra, who at the end of the banquet, dips one of her earrings decorated with a fine pearl into a cup of vinegar. The pearl dissolves and Cleopatra drinks the drink, winning not only her bet but also the heart of Mark Antony.

Find our collection of pearl jewelry on our site 58 Facettes.