The art of lacquer in jewelry

Lacquer is a technique derived from Asian know-how, appreciated for its many aesthetic possibilities and its durability, it is long used to embellish objects and works of art.

Origins and history of lacquer in jewelry

Lacquer originally came from a tree called the sap of the lacquer tree, commonly called "Rhus verniciflua" (old name) or "Toxicodendron vernicifluum", whose sap contains an aqueous fraction and an organic fraction. 

The first use of lacquer dates back more than 7000 years in China, which was found on many decorative objects, furniture, accessories and jewelry. Over the years, it gradually spread to Japan, Vietnam, Korea and other parts of Southeast Asia, each developing its own variations in lacquer art.

In jewelry, the introduction of lacquer dates back to the time of trade between Asia and Europe, allowing Western artisans to discover this fascinating material. It was from the 19th century that the great European jewelers began to incorporate lacquer into their creations, also drawing inspiration from patterns inspired by Japanese or Chinese art, offering representations of local flora and fauna. It was truly in the 20th century, with the rise of theArt Deco, that lacquer becomes a central element in jewelry.

 

Lacquer techniques in jewelry

The art of lacquer in jewelry is based on advanced techniques that require precision and patience. This natural resinous substance, once harvested, is filtered and mixed with other natural pigments to create different colors, applied in successive layers and then polished to obtain a smooth, shiny and resistant finish. This process can take several days or even weeks, depending on the desired thickness and rendering.

One of the major assets of lacquer is its ability to capture light while maintaining a smooth and uniform appearance. It also allows for the creation of depth effects, thanks to the application of several layers that give the jewel a subtly complex texture.

There are different approaches in the application of lacquer in jewelry, the best known of which are:

• Urushi lacquer : Traditionally used in East Asia, this technique  consists of mixing different colors of lacquer with gold or silver powder.silver on a wooden or paper surface 
• The champlevé technique : This method involves carving cavities into the metal of the jewel, which are then filled with lacquer. This creates raised patterns, often complex, that play with the contrasts in texture between the metal surface and the lacquer.
• The maki-e : This technique consists of sprinkling gold powder orsilver on the still fresh lacquer, creating effects of shine and relief. It is particularly prized for jewelry with complex patterns.

Lacquer in contemporary jewelry

Lacquer was once used to make jewels worthy of real paintings, rich in color blends and hand-made details. Today, the application of lacquer has changed: it is used more to create flat colors than detailed designs. It is often found associated with precious stones, such as diamonds, rubies or emeralds, where the art of lacquer dialogues harmoniously with the light of the gems.

Now, houses such as Boucheron, Cartier or even Chanel regularly use lacquer in their collections, and more particularly black lacquer to contrast with the color of the metal, and which has become a popular choice for modern jewelry. 

 

 

The difference between lacquer and resin 

Nowadays, lacquer is often confused with resin, because the latter is used to reproduce its aesthetic rendering on modern jewelry. Indeed, each are used for their decorative qualities, however they differ in their composition and application:

• Lacquer, of natural origin, is applied in thin and polished layers, offering a shiny and refined finish, but it is more fragile and requires a long process.
• The resin, usually synthetic (epoxy, acrylic, polyester, etc.) is cast and hardened in a single layer, making it easier to handle and more robust. It has gained popularity due to its versatility and, above all, its relatively low cost compared to traditional materials such as lacquer or enamel.

Note that on the majority of vintage jewelry, it is mainly lacquer since resin only appeared in the middle of the 20th century.

 

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