From sewing workshops to jewelry workshops, the same hand, the same gaze, the same concern for the perfect gesture. Yesterday, the houses Chanel, Dior, Balenciaga, and Louis Vuitton were “content” to enhance the body with fabric. Today, they also adorn it with light. By transposing their stylistic language into precious metals, these Haute Couture houses They no longer simply clothe bodies, but sculpt them: that is why we will describe them as: "The couturiers of jewelry".

The architects

Balenciaga, metallic geometries, rigid volumes

Balenciaga, Maison Founded in 1919 by Cristóbal Balenciaga, it is the perfect example of architectural couture. Although the maison Although he did not develop a traditional jewelry line, his creations of accessories and fashion jewelry reflect this heritage. 

The current artistic direction, under Demna Gvasalia, perpetuates the sculptural approach: the jewelry incorporates the logo of the Maison, whose name or initial is worked in different ways: the range Nano Or BB Icon with two back-to-back Bs suggesting a mirror effect and the range Metal with a very deconstructed and edgy font. There are also charm jewelry pieces inspired by the horoscope, and everyday accessories (bags, military dog tags...) to play with layering.

Simple proposals, or even minimalist but still powerfulThese creations, which remain limited in their distribution and are mostly out of stock, demonstrate that Balenciaga manages to transpose its vision of couture into metal.

Bottega Veneta: jewelry as a design object

Bottega Veneta, Maison Italian company founded in 1966, launched its line of "fashion jewelry" in 2006, under the supervision of the creative team then led by Tomas Maier. bracelets, rings and earrings in gold-plated metal or silver, inspired byiconic woven shapes Intrecciato. 

In 2024Bottega Veneta launched its first fine jewelry collection, under the artistic direction of Matthieu BlazyThe pieces are made of gold and diamonds, crafted in traditional Italian workshops, and extend the couture language of the maison in precious metal. Iconic collections include Drop, with its minimalist sculptural earrings, and Twist, which plays on the twisting of metal to create pure and elegant volumes, and where chEach piece appears sculpted, like a functional work of art.

This approach reflects the spirit "Timeless and discreet" from Bottega Veneta where The materiality and purity of the gesture take precedence on excessive ornamentation.

The dreamers

Valentino, rococo romanticism

Valentino, under the direction of Pierpaolo PiccioliValentino has expanded its couture universe into jewelry with collections highlighting romanticism and a reimagined baroque style. Valentino jewelry is characterized by...generous use of pearls and floral motifs, contrasting with the "V" of the Maison, in a harmonious blend of precious stones and metal. Iconic designs include rings and necklaces Rockstud Pearl, or floral and beaded gala attire. The aesthetic choice reflects the continuity between flowing dresses and accessories: lightness and sophisticationEach piece seems to interact with the fabric, accentuating the movement and femininity of the silhouette.

Dior and its wildly floral delicacy 

The line Dior Jewelry really took off in 1998, with the appointment of Castellane's victory as artistic director. She marked a decisive turning point, breathing new life into Dior.a whimsical and narrative approach Flowers, stars, imaginary gardens and Couture motifs become jewelry.

From her nimble fingers were born numerous designs that have become iconic today: Rose des Vents, My Dior, And Mimioui.

There Maison It stands out for its floral, poetic and extremely feminine universe.

The modernists

Chanel, the modernity of black & white

Chanel is one of the pioneers of couture jewelry. In 1932Gabrielle Chanel launches the collection Diamond Jewelryintroducing pure diamonds into graphic and contrasting black and white compositions. This gesture marks the beginning of a style that prioritizes sobriety and timelessness, while respecting the couture codes of the maison. Today, under the current artistic direction of the jewelry department, the collections continue to explore this dialogue between modernity and tradition, with iconic pieces such as the collections Camélia, Comète, Ultra And Coco CrushThe designs reflect a modernist approach: clean lines, clear geometry, a mix of precious materials and strong contrasts, where the jewelry becomes an extension of the silhouette rather than an isolated ornament.

The Surrealists

Schiaparelli and her daring body jewelry 

Schiaparelli, founded by Elsa Schiaparelli, embodies surrealism in jewelry. Under the current direction of Daniel Roseberry, there maison She creates sculptural, bold pieces, sometimes worn as body art: heart brooches, eye or lip jewelry, unexpected and symbolic forms. The aesthetic is conceptual and narrative, transforming each piece of jewelry into an extension of the couture imagination. 

The craftsmen

Hermès from leather to metal

Hermès, Founded in 1837, the company translates its artisanal excellence from leather to metal. The jewelry reflects clean lines, functionality transformed into aesthetics, and meticulous attention to detail. Iconic pieces include bracelets. Dog Collar Revisited, leather and metal cuffs, necklaces with clean lines inspired by harnesses and saddles. The approach: elegant simplicity, transforming the functional into art, extending the spirit of couture and leather goods into jewelry.

Louis Vuitton: from travel to Jewelry set

Louis Vuitton launched its high jewelry line in 2008, under the direction of Francesca Amfitheatrof. There maison transforms iconic travel motifs—monograms, stars, trunk shapes—into sculptural jewelry. Iconic designs: B Blossom, Spirit, Deep TimeArchitectural bracelets and rings that transpose the trunk and the journey into precious metal. The aesthetic approach: architecture, heritage and sophistication, merging couture, leather goods and jewelry.

Gucci: from chic streetwear to jewelry

Gucci launched its first high jewelry collection in 2019, under the creative direction of Alessandro MicheleThe jewelry incorporates iconic symbols: animals, mythological motifs, and historical designs, combined with colorful, contemporary whimsy. Signature pieces: necklaces Hortus DeliciarumSnake and lion rings, earrings adorned with multicolored stones. The aesthetic plays on storytelling, fantasy, and revisited couture, creating an immediately recognizable jewelry universe.

The Baroques

Versace, sensuality and mythological gold

Versace translates its baroque DNA into jewelry: gold leaf, mythological motifs, sculpted reliefs, and saturated colors. Iconic pieces include rings and necklaces. MedusaWide gold bracelets, sculptural earrings. The art direction, under Donatella Versace, emphasizes the spectacular and the theatrical. The approach: unabashed maximalism, sensuality, visual exuberance — the jewelry becomes a direct extension of the dresses and iconic silhouettes of the maison.

Balmain, Olivier Rousteing style, ornate and massive

Balmain has launched its official jewelry line in 2022, under the creative direction ofOlivier RousteingThe jewelry is massive, highly ornate, sometimes gilded or encrusted with stones. Iconic pieces include layered necklaces and bracelets, XXL rings, and sculptural earrings. The aesthetic is resolutely baroque and theatrical, true to the couture style of the... maison, which prioritizes visual impact and the staging of ornamental richness.

Dolce & Gabbana, the Mediterranean Baroque Theatre

Dolce & Gabbana translates its couture universe into jewelry with pieces strongly inspired by Sicilian and Baroque iconography: gilding, religious motifs, and mythological figures. The emblematic designs include Baroque necklaces and rings, jewelry with floral and animal themes, and sculptural pieces with a striking visual impact. The aesthetic approach is opulence, theatricality, and exuberance, true to the couture style and the Italian spirit of the brand. maison.

Some "fashion" jewelry houses

Elie Saab and his Gala jewelry

Elie Saab, the Lebanese couturier renowned for his sumptuous evening gowns, began incorporating jewelry into his fashion shows in the early 2000s. These creations, often made in collaboration with specialized workshops, feature the couture language of fluidity and lightness Sparkling crystals, undulating lines, floral or aquatic motifs: Elie Saab jewelry is designed to complement a glamorous silhouette, adding light and movement without disrupting the elegance of the dress. Among its iconic pieces are the bracelets and rings from the collection Ondine , necklaces with flowing pendants. The aesthetic is very romantic soft and airy, and perfectly illustrates the category of dreamers, where poetry and refinement take precedence over structure or minimalism and contrast with the previous category of architects.

Saint Laurent, minimalist-rock jewelry

Saint Laurent has officially launched its high jewelry line in 2023, under the artistic direction of Anthony Vaccarello. There maison Adopting a minimalist yet ultra-graphic style: sculptural chains, solid gold rings, rigid bracelets, and pendants with clean lines. The aesthetic choice: a rock minimalism, blending androgynous sensuality and modernity, where jewelry becomes a statement of attitude and an extension of the couture spirit. Iconic pieces: rings and necklaces. YSL Signature, graphic bracelets with geometric shapes and modular chains.

Givenchy: a similar sensibility, post-2000 experiments

Givenchy did not develop a permanent jewelry line, but during certain periods after 2000, particularly under Riccardo TisciIconic jewelry has appeared in couture collections. The approach is close to surrealism: bold pieces, dark minimalism or gothic references, graphic and symbolic jewelry. Emblematic designs include chain necklaces, geometric brooches, and bracelets incorporating logos and unconventional motifs.

Maison Margiela, the conceptual jewel

Maison Margiela applies its conceptual DNA to jewelry: deconstruction, experimentation with materials, a minimalist approach, but with visual impact. Under the direction of John GallianoThe pieces become works of art: asymmetrical rings, mismatched earrings, modular bracelets. The aesthetic approach: provocation and concept before ornamentation, making jewelry a vehicle for intellectual expression, true to the couture of the maison.

Chloé: the talismanic jewel, feminine and discreet

Chloé doesn't have a large, standalone jewelry line, but its accessories and fine jewelry embody the soft and romantic femininity of the maison. The designs echo the bohemian and airy aesthetic of the clothing: gold pendants, delicate necklaces, and symbolic rings. The aesthetic choice: almost talismanic jewelry, discreet yet refined, designed for everyday wear rather than as formal pieces. Signature pieces: necklaces Darceythin rings Alphabet, finely engraved bracelets.

Jean Paul Gaultier, couture subversion, corsets, twists and pop symbols

Jean Paul Gaultier, famous for his iconoclastic fashion, transposes this energy into his jewelry. Although he doesn't have an established jewelry line, his fashion creations incorporate twists, chains, and pop motifs that embody the subversive and provocative spirit of the maison. Iconic pieces include twisted metal bracelets, corset brooches, and costume jewelry for the runway. The aesthetic is resolutely graphic and bold, playing on the juxtaposition of couture elements and metal, making the jewelry a visual manifesto, true to Gaultier's iconic universe.

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