A new way to wear time with Première Galon de Chanel between watch and couture jewelry

The Original First, a revolution in Watchmaking and Couture since 1987

Initially launched in 1987 under the impetus of Arnold Guez, then president of Chanel Watchmaking, the First Marked a bold break in a watchmaking world dominated by rigid and technical masculine codes. Its integrated octagonal case, directly inspired by the architectural lines of Place Vendôme - iconic place where Coco Chanel opened its first shop in 1910 - broke with the traditional round or tonneau shapes of luxury watches. Initially measuring 23mm in diameter, it featured a finely chiseled guilloché dial, often in mother-of-pearl or black lacquer, protected by a domed anti-reflective sapphire crystal.

What made the First World War truly revolutionary was its interchangeable bracelets : an integrated chain of links reminiscent of the iconic quilting of 2.55 bags and suits Chanel, Available in alligator leather, gold or velvet. Equipped with an ultra-reliable quartz movement (caliber Chanel 08.1), it offered impeccable precision in a jeweled setting, with versions paved with baguette or brilliant diamonds for a couture sparkle. Symbol of female emancipationThe First one foreshadowed philosophy Chanel : watchmaking is not a technical gadget, but an extension of the wardrobe, a piece of jewelry that complements everyday life like a necklace or bracelet. Produced in numbered limited editions, it garnered awards from the 1990s onwards, such as the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève, and remains today a vintage piece prized at auction reaching up to 20,000 euros for the Première Sound models (with minute repeater). Première Galon follows in this tradition, pushing couture integration even further.

The braid, a timeless and artisanal symbol of couture Chanel

At the house of Chanel, The braid is not simply a decorative ribbon: it is a pillar of couture heritageinherited from the military uniforms that Gabrielle Chanel It was reinterpreted in the 1920s to create structured and elegant suits. Hand-braided in the workshops of rue Cambon or Avenches (Switzerland, for watchmaking), this flat or twisted ribbon in silk, wool, or metal symbolizes artisanal refinement and geometric precision. It can be found on buttoned jackets, bags Kelly revisited, or the belts of evening dresses, often trimmed with gold braid for a luxurious contrast.

In Première Galon, this braid transcends its decorative function to become the watch strap itself Crafted in 18-karat yellow gold, it measures up to 20mm wide in its most opulent version, woven with a density and suppleness that creates an asymmetrical twist around the wrist – a free, almost sculptural gesture reminiscent of the couture draping of the Cruise collections. Made by artisans specializing in luxury passementerie (a technique inherited from military supplies), the braid is hand-polished to a satin sheen and scratch-resistant thanks to a specific PVD treatment. This reinterpretation blurs boundaries: no longer is there a need for a dominant dial or a rigid lug; The braid wraps around like a tailor's ribbon, incorporating the 33mm octagonal Première case like a couture knot. It recalls the first Premières with a braided leather strap, but elevates the concept to a standalone piece of jewelry, wearable alone as a wristwatch or layered with other jewelry pieces. Chanel.

The three faces of Première Galon: from radical minimalism to jewelry extravagance

Première Galon comes in three variations, each exploring a facet of the aesthetic Chanel, with a quartz movement precise (hours and minutes only), 30m water resistance and the iconic octagonal case that evokes the N°5 cork and the Place Vendôme, with an ergonomic bracelet that closes like a couture bangle.

The launch price is €15,500 for the minimalist version, up to €60,000 for the extravagant one.

• Version Minimalist "Première Galon Watch" : Ref. H11048 (Yellow gold and onyx, - €15,500) : Octagonal case (19.7 x 15.2 x 7.5 mm) in polished yellow gold, pure black lacquered dial without indexes, onyx cabochon crown, minimalist twisted braid bracelet for discreet and timeless elegance.

© Chanel

• Version Paved "Première Galon Watch" : Ref. H11049 (Yellow gold and diamonds, - €28,300) : Case set with 52 diamonds (~0.24 ct), bracelet with 80 additional diamonds (~0.76 ct), brilliant diamond crown, black lacquered dial for a refined and balanced shine.

© Chanel

• Extravagant Version "Première Galon Diamond Watch" : Ref. H11050 (Total paving, - €60,000) : Yellow gold dial set with 108 diamonds (~0.49 ct), bracelet and clasp with 573 diamonds (~4.90 ct), totaling 682 diamonds (~5.43 ct), diamond crown (~0.04 ct), a spectacular work of high jewelry.

  

  © Chanel

Chanel : Watches, JewelryCouture, a unit without borders

At the house of Chanel, The boundary between watchmaking, jewelry, and couture does not exist: it is a fluid continuity, where Each creation extends Gabrielle's DNA Chanel : Geometry, tweed, pearls, and gold. Première Galon is masterful proof: it reinterprets the 1987 icon with a 2025 couture twist, integrating the advanced manufacturing techniques of Avenches (certified Geneva Seal) with the passementerie craftsmanship of Parisian workshops. Available from January 2025 in stores Chanel selected (Paris, Geneva, New York) and during Flash Sales, This model invites collectors of fine jewelry and watches to reinvent their wrist.

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