How to recognize a real jewel Art Deco ?

The period Art Deco appeared in the 1920s, and continues to fascinate jewelry lovers and collectors ever since. But how can you tell a real jewel apart? Art Deco Another inspired by this era, but made in later years? In this article, discover the essential elements for recognizing these iconic pieces of second-hand jewelry.

The jewelry Art Deco : between geometry and symmetry

One of the most distinctive signs of jewelry Art Deco is the importance given to geometric shapes. Designers of this era favored straight lines, sharp angles, zigzag patterns, herringbone patterns... to transcribe symmetrical compositions inspired by many cultures and eras. We find Egyptian, oriental, African motifs and even references to Antiquity.

Designers also play with contrasting colors and textures, creating bold and sophisticated compositions. Abstract motifs, fans, stylized suns, and ray patterns are also common. Jewelry often features an architectural structure, evoking modernity and the dynamism of the interwar periodThis aesthetic contrasts with the soft curves and floral patterns of Art Nouveau which precedes.

On this first criterion, it is therefore relatively difficult to identify a real jewel Art Deco of a “fake”, since both will have designs born from the same sources of inspiration and follow the same codes. 

The characteristic materials of theArt Deco

The jewelry Art Deco are recognizable by the materials they use, notably white gold and platinum Both of which are highly prized for their cool brilliance and their ability to enhance precious stones. Diamonds are ubiquitous, often cut in baguette, triangular, or marquise shapes to accentuate graphic lines. Some colored stones can be associated with them, including sapphire, emerald, ruby, or even the appearance of other techniques such as black lacquer to add contrast and depth to the jewelry.

Here, to distinguish a real jewel Art Deco, This is in the details: and in particular in the cutting of the stones. Indeed, these will present old cuts, displaying irregular proportions and facets which testify to manual work carried out with traditional tools, often themselves cut by hand and which move away from the cutting-edge tools of today.

Then, another notable element is that a period jewel may present a combination of two metals, for example gold (white or yellow), used for the setting of the jewel, and platinum, which is used for setting due to its higher hardness. This particularity is not valid for all jewelry Art Deco, but may be a certain proof of it, which is no longer found at all in jewelry made today.

The manufacturing processes, revealing a piece of jewelry from a period or inspiration Art Deco

In this continuity, as for the cutting of stones, the manufacture of jewelry inspired Art Deco, requires more mechanical, regular, controlled work and evokes industrial production, done using cutting-edge tools, and is distinguished from the manual and artisanal gesture of the time. This work has a direct impact on the aesthetics of the jewelry, which is quite smooth, flat and standardized, although it takes up the code of the time Art Deco, it was not made during this time, we cannot speak of Vintage jewelry, but of Vintage inspiration. 

A real gem Art Deco can be seen again through details; for example the setting will be irregular and not perfectly round and symmetrical. Likewise, it will include more details and manual work, or even the profile of the setting and the ring will be thought out, with for example an openwork basket, or a battering.

L'Art Deco, the sophistication of the port and versatility

Finally, the jewelry Art Deco are distinguished by the sophistication thought out even before their creation. For example, practical elements of jewelry, such as clasps, hinges and attachment systems, are generally very worked during this jewelry period, where they become more discreet and sophisticated, contributing to the overall elegance of the piece. Contemporary jewelry, on the other hand, is content with the essentials with clasps and hinges that are pre-machined, and welded to the whole as is, they are therefore generally often identical from one piece to another (except for Haute Joaillerie pieces, but in these cases we speak of unique pieces and therefore not industrial).

This sophistication can also lead to a variety of wear options, where brooches, necklaces, or bracelets can often be transformed or worn in different ways, thanks to ingenious systems. This modularity reflects the practical and modern spirit of the era, where active women want to adapt their jewelry to all occasions. More recent jewelry takes a faster path.

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