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Mauboussin, un glorieux passé de l’Art déco au Sultan de Brunei

Mauboussin, a glorious past ofArt Deco to the Sultan of Brunei

Today the house Mauboussin, well known to a wide audience for its accessible creations, has nevertheless served the greats of this world thanks to its dazzling beginnings.

From 1827 to the Universal Exhibitions

The history dates back to 1827 with the creation of a jewelry workshop in Paris by Mr Rocher and taken over by Jean-Baptiste Noury. The latter very quickly achieved great success abroad, particularly in Latin America and Egypt, with a rich clientele opening up to the world of luxury. In 1873, faced with this success, he hired his young nephew, Georges Mauboussin. In 1878, they won a bronze medal at the Paris Universal Exhibition, followed by a second prize at the 1878 Universal Exhibition. In 1883, at only 21 years old, Georges Mauboussin takes charge of the business which he renames with his own name.

The period Art Deco : a new impetus

Particularly visionary, Georges Mauboussin decided to set up in 1923, rue de Choiseul in Paris, a store adjoining his office and workshops allowing him to receive his wealthy clientele while carrying out orders for custom-made jewelry on site. He created thematic exhibitions such as in 1928 presenting two hundred and thirty-five luxurious creations with the centerpiece, the historic 24-carat emerald offered by Bonaparte to Joséphine. It continues with other exhibitions on the four precious stones (diamond, ruby, sapphire, emerald) which will make it famous. During the famous Exhibition of Modern Decorative Arts in Paris in 1925, he exhibited numerous prestigious pieces such as an octagonal diamond of 64 carats and a Colombian emerald of more than 10 carats mounted on a brooch, or even a star sapphire of more than 86 carats. Vogue magazine spotted him at this second-hand and describes “his use of hard stones as ingenious and lively”. Building on his success, in 1925 he received the Cross of the Legion of Honor. George Mauboussin presents its pieces internationally Art Deco and opened branches in Rio, Buenos Aires and London. His son, Pierre Mauboussin inaugurates a showroom in New York, but has to close it quickly following the financial crisis of 1929. The company is saved by Marcel Goulet, cousin of Georges Mauboussin who gave his son Jean Goulet the reins of the company in 1942, while retaining the name Mauboussin.

The 50s and 60s: from the Vendôme Committee to High Jewelry

Member of the Vendôme Committee and the Colbert Committee (founded in 1954), the house Mauboussin sets up a boutique at Place Vendôme. Jean Goulet is one of the great jewelers and contributes to the creation of Haute Joaillerie de France, a label aimed at promoting French quality internationally.  

Many magazines such as Vogue, L'Officiel or Air France refer to the emblematic pieces of the style of the time, ranging from bird brooches to floral themes, decorated with scrolls. The very colorful creations with engraved or cabochon stones, in a Tutti Frutti spirit, became characteristic of the post-war era, a wind of frivolity and freedom desired by more active women.

The 80s: The success of the Nadia collection

Alain and Patrick, the two sons of Jean Goulet-Mauboussin bring their modern vision of jewelry by creating collections like the Nadia model which becomes the emblematic and historic collection of the brand. Linking mother-of-pearl to diamond, the Nadia collection is named with the first letters of NAcre and DIAmant. The combination of two materials, one precious and the other natural, launches a real trend in modern jewelry with clean lines.

The Sultan of Brunei and his sumptuous orders

The 80s were also the years of excess and the greats of this world called on the most important jewelers to create jewelry and decorative objects to their measure. So, Mauboussin obtains orders from Prince Jefri Bolkiah of the Sultanate of Brunei, a small state located on the island of Borneo, extremely rich in its hydrocarbons. Known as the “Playboy Prince”, Jefri Bolkiah acquired over 10 years nearly eight personal planes and more than two thousand cars including Rolls-Royce, Aston Martin and Ferrari. In terms of jewelry and custom pieces, we can no longer count the number of watches paved with diamonds, stone busts bearing his likeness or sumptuous jewelry for his three successive wives.

Unfortunately, with the various oil shocks, the house Mauboussin lost its main customer in 1998 and new impetus must be given to the brand. The company was bought in 2002 by the Swiss financier, Dominique Frémont, who entrusted management to Alain Némarq, wishing to democratize the brand to reach a wide audience. Thus, the four-pointed star, the rings from the Chance of love collection, in the shape of a clover, or Dream & Love, triangular ring, translate immediately understandable and universal symbols. A new style and a new page turns…

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