Léon Gariod - Victorian bracelet in yellow gold, silver, star sapphire and diamonds
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With its large blue star sapphire, its silver links set with diamonds, and its substantial yellow gold curb chain, this bracelet is a fine example of late 19th-century French high jewelry. Its 96 rose-cut diamonds guide the eye from the sapphire to the articulated links, while its flexible construction allows it to rest naturally on the wrist. A Parisian jewel branded Léon Gariod, whom Henri Vever, the most eminent chronicler of 19th-century French jewelry, praised for the rare perfection of his work.
- Type of jewelry: flexible link bracelet.
- Condition: excellent condition. No repairs have been observed.
- Country of origin: France.
- Style: Victorian, a broad designation for this late 19th-century French bracelet.
- Period: circa 1880.
- Material: 18-carat yellow gold, tested on a touchstone, with diamond settings in silver on gold.
- Technique: articulated gold links and diamond settings in silver on gold.
- Diamonds: 96 rose-cut diamonds.
- Each diamond in this bracelet has been individually checked using the EXA Natural Diamond Detector developed by Magilabs; each test gave a natural diamond result.
- Rose-cut diamonds are traditionally described by their number rather than by an estimated weight, color, or clarity. Their irregular proportions, often accentuated by closed-back settings, make a reliable weight estimate and standard grading impractical when mounted.
- Stone: a natural blue star sapphire, oval-shaped and cabochon-cut, measuring 16.5 × 14.2 × 11.3 mm, with a clearly visible star effect.
- The sapphire is conservatively estimated at approximately 25 carats. Its substantial cabochon profile may mean that its actual weight is higher, possibly approaching 28 carats.
- It is common for sapphires to be treated to improve their color or clarity. The sapphire in this bracelet has not been tested for such treatments.
- Traditional gemstone associations: sapphire is traditionally associated with the month of September and with wisdom; diamond is the traditional birthstone for the month of April and is associated with enduring love.
- Maker: by Léon Gariod, Paris, bearing his registered maker's mark: a vertical lozenge enclosing a hunting horn between the letters “L” and “G”.
- Henri Vever, the most eminent chronicler of 19th-century French jewelry, states in his reference work French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century that Gariod specialized in articulated bracelets and matte gold chains decorated with stones, an exceptionally direct historical parallel with this bracelet.
- René Lalique later provided designs to Gariod, placing the maison within the creative network of the major figures of late 19th-century French jewelry.
- Hallmarks: French maker's mark of Léon Gariod; French eagle-head guarantee marks for 18-carat gold; and French rhinoceros-head assay mark used on flexible gold chains.
- A detailed enlargement showing all hallmarks is included among the accompanying photographs.
- Dimensions: length 18.70 cm (7.36 in). See the photograph with a millimeter scale.
- Weight: 39.7 g.
- Historical references: Henri Vever, French Jewelry of the Nineteenth Century, pp. 1114 to 1116 and 1208; Rémi Verlet, Dictionary of Jewelers, Bijouters and Goldsmiths in France, from 1850 to the present day, p. 974.
Référence 58 Facettes : 10359138058569
SKU : 26211-0077
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About this seller:
Vendeur professionnel - Statut : Diamond
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The jewelry is delivered in 1 to 4 business days.
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