Rare Jewelry set in 19th-century micromosaic by Menichini Giacomo – A masterpiece of the Grand Tour

A complete Jewelry set in Victorian Roman micromosaic of this caliber is a rarity, making it an exceptional discovery, beyond its documented creator. Crafted in 18-carat gold by Menichini Giacomo, this Jewelry set embodies the highest Roman craftsmanship of its era. The intricate micromosaics, assembled with masterful precision, feature delicate floral compositions and symbolic scarabs, set against exquisitely fine goldsmithing. For its historical significance, exceptional craftsmanship, and near-museum quality, this Jewelry set is not a mere jewel, but a true collector's treasure, a lasting relic of the Grand Tour's golden age.

Group of objects from antique jewelry
Jewelry set (set of matching jewelry) composed of a bracelet, a brooch, and earrings.

Condition
Remarkably well preserved, especially considering its age and the delicate nature of micromosaic jewelry. As is not uncommon for micromosaic jewelry of this period, a few small tesserae (tiny pieces of colored glass or enamel used to create the mosaic) are missing in various places, although they are not particularly noticeable.

The earrings were originally designed as pendants passing through the lobe. The upper parts have been preserved, while the lower parts have been carefully and reversibly converted into clips. The only modification made is the removal of the small loops connecting the two parts. Although all the original components are still present, we have chosen not to restore them to their original state. This allows the future owner to choose to keep them as they are, preserving their historical evolution, or to have them restored to their original form, which remains easily possible thanks to the reversible nature of the modification.

The original case bears the traces of its ±170-year journey, adding to its historical authenticity.

The brooch and bracelet both feature a circular compartment on the reverse, sealed with glass. Each compartment measures approximately 24 mm in diameter and was probably intended to hold a personal memento, such as a lock of hair or a miniature keepsake. This delicate detail has remained intact, adding to the historical charm of the set.
more information on our condition scale

Country of origin
Italy, Rome

Style
The Victorian era (1837-1901) is characterized by an eclectic revival of historical styles and a growing fascination with intricate craftsmanship and refined details. Influences from the Middle East and Asia became prominent in the decorative arts, including jewelry, furniture, and interior decoration.

In jewelry, the Victorian era saw a remarkable diversity of creations, evolving from sentimental and romantic motifs to bold ornamental designs. The Arts and Crafts movement, the Aesthetic movement, the Anglo-Japanese style, and Art Nouveau all have their origins at the end of this era.
See also: Victorian
more information on styles

Style specifics
The Victorian era (1837-1901) is traditionally divided into three stylistic periods: the Romantic Victorian period (1837-1860), the High Victorian period (1860-1880), and the Late or Aesthetic Victorian period (1880-1901).

This Jewelry set dates back to the Romantic Victorian period, a time shaped by the reign of Queen Victoria and its strong emphasis on sentimental and symbolic jewelry.

The jewelry of this period is known for its intricate craftsmanship, including delicate carvings, fine enameling, and innovative techniques that create an impression of opulence while using less precious metal, as gold and silver were relatively scarce.

The favored materials included amethyst, coral, garnets, cultured pearls, and turquoise, often set in designs influenced by Gothic and Renaissance motifs. Common motifs included anchors, birds, branches, crosses, hearts, and snakes, each carrying deep symbolic meaning.

Period
circa 1870
Events and facts of this era, poetry of this era, fashion of this era.

Source of inspiration
This exquisite micromosaic Jewelry set is closely linked to the Grand Tour, a cultural phenomenon that reached its peak in the 19th century. The Grand Tour was a traditional journey across Europe undertaken by wealthy young men, particularly British and American, for the purpose of cultural education. Rome was a flagship destination, and visitors often purchased beautiful souvenirs to commemorate their trip.

Micromosaic jewelry, with its complex craftsmanship and depictions of monuments and classical motifs, became highly sought-after souvenirs for Grand Tour travelers. These pieces were generally commissioned from skilled Roman artisans, many of whom worked near the Spanish Steps and the Vatican Mosaic Workshop.

This Jewelry set, created in Rome in the second half of the 19th century, demonstrates both the artistic refinement and the growing demand for this type of jewelry at the time. While some micromosaic pieces were mass-produced due to their popularity, the quality of the materials and execution of this Jewelry set indicates it was commissioned from a highly skilled workshop, possibly in collaboration with renowned specialists.

Theme
This magnificent Jewelry set in micromosaic is inspired by nature and classical decorative elements, two features highly prized in Victorian Grand Tour jewelry. The central motifs, composed of flowers, insects, and finely detailed ornamental patterns, reflect the 19th-century fascination with botanical studies and the symbolism of nature.

The floral micromosaic at the center of each piece presents an exquisite arrangement of flowers, meticulously crafted from tiny glass tesserae (small pieces of colored glass or enamel). These floral motifs often symbolized romantic devotion, beauty, and the fleeting nature of time, recurring themes in Victorian jewelry.

Moreover, the micromosaic inlays of scarabs on the earrings and bracelet add an additional symbolic dimension. Insects, and particularly scarabs, were admired for their association with resilience, transformation, and eternal life, a theme deeply rooted in Victorian and ancient Roman symbolism.

The symmetrical and ornamental design, with its delicate filigree embellishments, evokes the grandeur of Renaissance and Rococo influences, often echoed in Victorian jewelry. This blend of naturalistic themes and historic revival styles makes this Jewelry set a true masterpiece of Grand Tour micromosaic jewelry, capturing both the artistry and sensibility of its era.

Material 18K
yellow gold (tested with a touchstone)
more information about precious metals

Technique
This Jewelry set showcases the exceptional craftsmanship of 19th-century Roman micromosaics, a technique perfected in the Vatican mosaic workshops and highly popular during the Grand Tour era.

Micromosaics are created from tesserae (tiny pieces of colored glass or enamel) carefully arranged to form intricate images. The technique used for this piece is called smalti filati: opaque enamel is heated and stretched into fine threadlike strips, which are then cut into tiny segments to be meticulously inserted into the design. This method allows for an extraordinary level of detail, reproducing the softness and depth of painted artworks.

The structure of these mosaics varies according to the scale of the work. In jewelry, the tesserae were often set on bases of gold, copper, or glass, thus ensuring their durability while preserving the delicacy of the composition. The combination of bright colors, precise execution, and harmonious composition makes this Jewelry set a perfect example of 19th-century Roman micromosaic mastery.

More general information about
This Jewelry set is an important piece of nineteenth-century Roman jewelry, both for its exceptional craftsmanship and for its documented connection to Menichini Giacomo.

The master’s mark G136M, identified in the archives, confirms that this Jewelry set was made by Menichini Giacomo, a nineteenth-century Roman goldsmith.

Although there is no evidence that Menichini specialized in micromosaic jewelry, at the end of the nineteenth century, many Roman goldsmiths collaborated with highly skilled micromosaic workshops to meet the growing demand for Grand Tour jewelry. The finesse of the execution of this Jewelry set suggests that it was created in partnership with a workshop specialized in micromosaic, rather than being the exclusive work of Menichini himself.

Despite his documented signature, there is no proof that Menichini Giacomo personally produced micromosaics. Given the exceptional precision and quality of this Jewelry set, it was probably commissioned from a Roman workshop specializing in micromosaic, rather than being the exclusive work of Menichini himself.

Unlike Castellani, who counted among his collaborators well-known micromosaic artists such as Luigi Podio, the work of Menichini Giacomo remains relatively unknown. However, the finesse of execution of this Jewelry set places it among the finest Roman micromosaic jewels of its era.

This makes this Jewelry set not only a superb collector’s item, but also an important historical testimony to the goldsmiths who contributed to the dynamic trade of nineteenth-century Roman jewelry.

We extend our sincere thanks to Maurizio Fioravanti, an expert in nineteenth-century Roman jewelry, whose archival research confirmed the attribution of this mark to Menichini Giacomo. His expertise has provided us with valuable insight into the historical significance of this Jewelry set.

Features
This Jewelry set bears the master’s mark G136M, attributed to Menichini Giacomo, a Roman goldsmith who worked from his home on Via di S. Lucia della Tinta. Although his work is little known, this documented piece offers a rare glimpse of his craftsmanship.

The mark does not appear fully formed in one place, but is stamped in several places. From these fragmentary impressions, we created a composite sketch, visible in the attached photos.
more information about the marks

Dimensions
Bracelet: circumference 16.00 cm (6.30 inches), widest part 5.25 cm (2.07 inches)
brooch: 5.28 cm (2.08 inches) x 5.10 cm (2.01 inches)
ear clips: 5.05 cm (1.99 inches) x 1.72 cm (0.68 inches)
pendant earrings: 2.36 cm (0.93 inches) x 1.08 cm (0.43 inches)

see the image with a ruler in millimeters and inches

Weight
bracelet: 78.40 grams (50.41 dwt)
brooch: 31.50 grams (20.25 dwt)
ear clips: 16.40 grams (10.55 dwt)
earrings: 4.20 grams (2.70 dwt)
Total weight: 130.50 grams (83.91 dwt)

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