Echoes of elegance: Viennese watch Art Deco inspired by Boucheron

This striking watch Art Deco, echoing the refinement and expertise of Boucheron, originates from Vienna. Crafted in 14-carat two-tone gold, it features beautifully detailed enameling and a classic floral motif, contrasted by the bold geometric lines typical of the era. It is adorned with 42 old-cut diamonds, together weighing approximately 1.30 carat. Celebrated not only for its beauty but also for its history, this watch has been showcased at exhibitions such as those at the Antwerp Diamond Museum and DIVA, making it a prized piece for any collector.

Set of antique jewelry items: ladies’ watch, pendant, and brooch

Condition: very good condition
- (more information on our condition scale)

Country of origin: Austria (Vienna)

Style: Art Deco - The Art Deco is an eclectic artistic and design style that originated in Paris in the first decades of the 20th century. Appearing in the 1920s, this style lasted until after the Second World War. The term “Art Deco” was widely used for the first time after an exhibition in 1966, in reference to the International Exhibition of Modern Decorative and Industrial Arts of 1925, which marked the height of the high-end modern style in Paris. Championed by the best designers of the decorative arts, such as fashion and interior design, the Art Deco influenced all areas of design throughout the 1920s and 1930s, notably architecture and industrial design, as well as visual arts such as painting, graphic arts, and cinema. At the time, this style was perceived as elegant, glamorous, functional, and modern.
- See also: Art Deco or more information on styles

Stylistic features: Abstract motifs and geometric shapes are typical of the Art Deco period. The Art Deco moves away from the soft pastels and organic forms of its predecessor, Art Nouveau, and draws inspiration from many styles and movements of the early 20th century, including Neoclassicism, Constructivism, Cubism, Modernism, and Futurism. Its popularity peaked in Europe during the Roaring Twenties and continued in the United States until the 1930s. While many design movements have political or philosophical roots or intentions, the Art Deco is purely decorative.

Additional information: Although this exquisite piece is marked only with Viennese hallmarks, its remarkable visual similarities with designs featured in a prestigious work by Boucheron strongly suggest its origin with a maison of this caliber. It should be noted that the jewel is made in 14-carat gold, unlike the 18-carat gold generally used for French pieces, in accordance with Vienna’s rather than Paris’s quality standards. This association is reinforced by a photograph in the Boucheron book, remarkably similar to our watch, both prominently featured among the photographs of our collection.

More about Boucheron: Boucheron is a leading French jewelry maison, founded in 1858 at the Palais-Royal in Paris by Frédéric Boucheron (1830-1902). Its headquarters are now located at 26, Place Vendôme, Paris, and it has branches in London and elsewhere. Frédéric Boucheron was succeeded by his son Louis (1874-1959), who was in turn succeeded by his son Gérard (born 1910), whose son Alain (born 1948) is currently active in the company. The London office, established in 1907, is located at 180 New Bond Street. In 1960, at the request of the Shah of Iran, the maison set up an exhibition of the royal jewelry collection in Tehran. Boucheron is recognized as a specialist in precious stones and a creator of luxury and mid-priced jewelry.

Period: around 1925
- (events and facts from 1925)

Source of inspiration: Mother Nature (see also: symbolism of flowers)

Material: 14-carat two-tone gold (yellow and white). Although most of this piece is made of yellow gold, the diamonds are set in white gold. Their origin dates back to a much earlier period (see the explanation regarding silver on gold).
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Technique: Enameling is an ancient and widely used technique. The Ancient Egyptians applied enamels to pottery and stone objects. The Greeks, Celts, Russians, and Chinese of antiquity also used enameling techniques on metal objects. Enamel is the colorful result of fusing powdered glass onto a substrate by firing, generally between 750 and 850 °C. The powder melts, flows, and hardens to form a smooth, durable glassy coating on metal, glass, or ceramics. According to some sources, the word enamel comes from the Old High German smelzan (to melt) via Old French esmail. Used as a noun, “an enamel” refers to a generally small decorative object covered with a layer of enamel, such as a champlevé or cloisonné (different techniques).

Diamonds: 42 old-mine brilliant-cut diamonds with a total estimated weight of about 1.30 ct.
Note: All diamond weights, color grades, and clarity are approximate as the stones have not been removed from their settings to preserve the integrity of the mounting.

Total diamond weight: about 1.30 ct.

Birthstones: Diamond is the birthstone (or birth month stone) for April.
- (more info on birthstones)

Hallmarks: The hallmark is a horse’s head with the letter “W”, which was used in Vienna, Austria, after 1922.
- (more info on hallmarks)

Dimensions: brooch width 2.97 cm (1.17 inch), watch height 4.50 cm (1.77 inch)

Weight: 21.50 grams (13.82 dwt)