TEFAF 2026: Van Cleef, Buccellati and Boivin, the golden trio of Maastricht

TEFAF, or The European Fine Art Fair, brings together each year in Maastricht the world's leading collectors and experts to celebrating art in all its forms, from masterpieces to exceptional objects. In 2026, from March 14 to 19, three exceptional jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels, Buccellati and René Boivin, will captivate the public with their creations. their masterful fusion of historicism and artistic modernity.

They embody a living art, award-winning their mastery of engraving, invisible settings and organic forms, true tributes to goldsmithing traditions, elevated to the status of sculptural works. 

Van Cleef & Arpels: the transformable heritage

Founded in 1906, Van Cleef & Arpels deploys at TEFAF 2026 around forty pieces from his Heritage collectionillustrating its pioneering role in the Decorative Arts of the 20th century with a notable twelfth participation in the fair.

Among the standout gems is a 1943 Feuille clip. platinum and abstract diamonds flirt with modernist geometry, while a 1947 model in white gold, pavé-set with brilliant diamonds and veined with baguette rubies in a Mystery Setting® (invention maison (from 1933) evokes lush foliage that can be transformed into a brooch or pendant. A butterfly brooch from the 1920s, in platinum The intricately crafted piece, adorned with calibrated diamonds, emeralds, and a fine pearl, reveals ingenious mechanisms allowing it to be converted into a necklace, highlighting the gemological expertise of the maison which selects stones of exceptional purity, such as these 5- to 10-carat Ceylon sapphires cut into cabochons for a velvety luster. These creations, dating from the 1920s to the 1960s, combine 18-karat gold, platinum, Old-cut diamonds and rare colored stones, celebrating a heritage where each piece tells a story of transformability and Parisian elegance. 

Buccellati: mosaic and engraved craftsmanship

Buccellati, Maison Milanese, founded in 1919, delights TEFAF 2026 with its age-old expertise drawn from Antiquity, where Engraving and chasing become timeless signatures. The Mosaico collection, inspired by the Byzantine mosaics of the Mausoleum of Galla Placidia in Ravenna, features bracelets and necklaces in hand-engraved yellow and white gold using the Rigato technique—fine parallel lines creating a textured, silky effect—and Telato, a translucent imitation of ancient glass. A unique statement necklace showcases geometric tesserae of yellow diamonds, blue sapphires, green tsavorites, and rubies, set in textured 18-karat Ornato and Modellato gold, totaling over 50 carats of vibrant gemstones reminiscent of a midnight blue starry sky enhanced with gold. Cocktail rings from the same line, such as one piece with 18-carat Paraiba tourmaline, 23-carat kunzite and 20-carat green tourmaline, hand-engraved for a sculptural relief, fuse Italian craftsmanship and Byzantine aesthetics, awarded for their goldsmithing precision which makes each piece of jewelry a complex and luminous work of art. 

René Boivin: legendary reissues of asymmetry and organic music

René Boivin, Parisian jeweller from the 1930s-1970s, fascinates in Maastricht with period originals and faithful re-editions made in Parisian workshops. An iconic brooch from 1920, whispers secrets Art Deco, A chased yellow gold pendant depicting an asymmetrical peacock with organic feathers set with rose-cut diamonds, cabochon emeralds, and carved carnelian weighs approximately 25 grams and embodies the fluid aesthetic of Jeanne Boivin, wife and collaborator of the founder. Among the 2026 reissues is a 1940s pendant bracelet in platinum, adorned with a 15-carat Australian opal framed by baguette diamonds and natural pearls, it retains the legendary asymmetry of the maison, Meanwhile, a 1960s ring reinterprets an organic form in rose gold, 8-carat stellar sapphires, and translucent enamel, totaling 30 grams of precious metals hand-worked for a hypnotic, sculptural effect. These pieces, sold to discerning collectors, perpetuate an organic and bold style, far removed from classical symmetries, with stones selected for their vibrant texture and patinated metals evoking nature in motion. 

Other notable jewelry at TEFAF 2026

Beyond the golden trio, Wartski exhibits royal pieces such as a diadem. Fabergé from 1900 in gold and platinum Set with 20-carat Russian emeralds and diamonds, while Margot McKinney presents contemporary creations in oxidized titanium and rough diamonds, blending organic minimalism with 10-carat Burmese rubies for a hybrid modernity. These discoveries complement a show where the art of jewelry is reborn under the Maastricht spotlight, inviting visitors to rediscover these timeless artisanal treasures.

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