Van Cleef & Arpels, technicality at the service of High Jewelry

DIRECTED BY KYRA BRENZINGER

Among the largest jewelry houses, Van Cleef & Arpels is undoubtedly the most inventive brand. His numerous creations have advanced jewelry know-how and his collections are still very current.

The mysterious setting: an emblematic creation

The history of the house begins with a love story bringing together two families from Holland through marriage in 1895 by Alfred Van Cleef and Esther Arpels. In 1906, Esther's brother, Salomon known as Charles Arpels, founded the Van Cleef & Arpels company with Alfred Van Cleef and set up their first boutique at 22, place Vendôme in Paris. The period was prosperous, notably with the Universal Exhibition of 1900 and the emergence of a bourgeois society. The numerous orders allowed Van Cleef & Arpels to open several boutiques in vacation spots like Deauville or on the Côte d'Azur. Their daughter, Renée Puissant, took over as artistic director of the house in 1926 and demonstrated great creativity and daring. She collaborated in tandem with the designer René-Sim Lacaze and they created a real brand identity thanks to the technical innovation of the Serti Mystérieux in 1933. A true patented technical revolution, the stones (rubies, sapphires and diamonds) are set on a rail allowing them to be positioned edge to edge without scratches. The first pieces were unveiled in 1937 in Paris, during the International Exhibition of Arts and Techniques in Modern Life, such as the Peony, Chrysanthemum and Rose clip brooches. Some pieces are currently on display in the exhibition on Precious Stones at the National Museum of Natural History in Paris.

The 50s : zip collar wire to wire

Based on an idea from the Duchess of Windsor, married to Edward VIII, Renée Puissant designed the first gold zipper set with diamonds in 1938. Named Zip necklace, it was not until 1951 that the first piece left the workshops, as this model was such a technical challenge. The world of couture is a source of inspiration for the house, which created collections in the 1950s with twisted or looped gold threads or positioned in chevrons. The Sergé set ending with pompoms or the filigree gold bracelets are very characteristic of the 1950s, often offering a contrast between yellow gold and diamond.

Animal and humorous brooches from the 60s

Currently displayed in its Heritage Gallery at 20, place Vendôme in Paris, animal and humorous brooches are particularly sought after in auction rooms. The emblematic pieces are the Tousled Lion with its messy mane, but also the Rabbit clip with its little diamond tail and coral carrot or the Normandy Duck clip wearing a hat and a fishing rod. Personalities like Grace of Monaco have worn these charming brooches bringing a touch of eccentricity to her outfits. In addition to the animal theme, recurring characters have emerged such as the Scarecrow, the Harlequin or the Pirate, very popular with American customers.

The iconic collection: the Alhambra

This model was created in 1968 and created a real revolution in the history of jewelry with an iconic collection famous throughout the world and particularly envied. It is true that this success is global and that many brands have tried to take inspiration from this recognizable 4-leaf clover shape. The first creation in 1968 consisted of a necklace entirely in yellow gold. But the Alhambra quickly evolved into many variations, including hard stones such as malachite, carnelian, lapis lazuli and mother-of-pearl. In the 70s, personalities like Romy Schneider and Françoise Hardy appeared with this necklace bringing a breath of freedom. The model is then available as a bracelet, earrings, ring and watch. And since the 2000s, the collections have multiplied like the Magic Alhambra, Lucky Alhambra or Byzantine Alhambra.

Flower Power

The Van Cleef & Arpels house is particularly known for its four-leaf clover from the Alhambra collection, but it also pays homage to the botanical diversity of our planet. Its Flower pattern, composed of blue sapphires and luminous citrines, evokes fields full of sunflowers. The delicacy of coral is also transformed into a double flower ring to be worn between two fingers. Butterflies fluttering around the neck cling to a necklace or pendant, illuminated by diamonds, emeralds or coral.

Oriental and inspired influences

In the 70s, the house of Van Cleef & Arpels offered sets with generous and colorful patterns, inspired by different horizons. The guideline is the harmonious mix of colors with amethyst and coral pompoms reminiscent of oriental paintings. On a necklace, the sculpted tourmalines are inspired by Indian jewelry and the Drapée set in white and orange coral seems taken from a painting of The Birth of Venus by Botticelli. Coral is also a particularly used material combined with amethysts or turquoise. The colorful sets are also transformable like the three bracelets with 3 different stones making up a mini necklace once the bracelets are assembled.

A magical world

As if to ward off the fate of an overly digital and futuristic era, the Van Cleef & Arpels house is inspired by tales and legends reminiscent of our childhood memories. The little Fairy brooches take us into an aquatic world with the Atlantide collection or invite us to dance in the legendary Balls. The Mysterious Setting technique is used on new stones such as sapphires of different colors creating magical adornments. As a finale, the house of Van Cleef & Arpels introduces us to a Bird of Paradise and Mysterious Phoenixes evolving gracefully in an imaginary garden.

To find out more about the Precious Stones exhibition: https://www.mnhn.fr/fr/visitez/agenda/exposition-evenement/pierres-precieuses