The mysteries of the cosmos at the heart of jewelry

The sky and the stars have always fascinated and nourished the imagination of artists, especially jewelers. Constellations, lunar phases, the brilliance of stars and the infinite depth of the cosmos offer an infinite number of possibilities to explore in jewelry!

What are the favorite materials for representing the celestial universe?

Certain stones have a particular symbolic resonance with the sky:

• Lapis lazuli, an intense blue dotted with golden inclusions of pyrite, recalls a starry sky and is associated with wisdom and serenity.

• Amethyst, with its deep purple hue, is often seen as a celestial stone promoting spiritual connection.

• Diamonds, often compared to stars, are prized for their brilliance which can easily recall the brilliance of the stars in the dark night thanks to their striking contrast.

• Sapphires, of their original blue color, or those that present an asterism, also called "star sapphires", are used to evoke the deep and mysterious sky. Colored sapphires, such as those of yellow, pink or violet, can also transcribe different intensities of celestial light.

• The opals, with their changing, iridescent reflections, evoke the dance of the northern lights and the magic of nebulae.

• Moonstone, with its soft, milky blue reflections, is associated with the night star and its mystical influence, hence its name. However, its formation has nothing to do with this star.

• Onyx, from its absolute black color, can be used to represent the darkness of the night.
  
  
• Golden Obsidian, this less known ornamental stone, is also appreciated for its enigmatic reflections, is linked to the mystical universe and the exploration of the unknown.

Jewelry techniques applied to the transcription of the celestial universe

In jewelry, there are multiple representation techniques, including a particular work of metal aimed at reproducing the magic of the cosmos in their creations. The best known is a type of setting, "star" where the metal is hollowed out in the shape of 5 branches, in order to create a star, then folded over the stone to fix it. Then, there is the technique of guilloche, which involves etching delicate grooves into metal surfaces, reminiscent of the rays of the sun or the wavy patterns of galaxies.

There are also other techniques for working with materials, includingtranslucent enamel, often applied in superimposed layers, which allows the creation of flat tints and color gradients that can recall the depth of nebulae and the intensity of the northern lights.

The universe as a model of creation for jewelry

To capture the beauty of the sky and the stars, jewelers opt for shapes that are sometimes figurative, sometimes abstract:

First, stars, often stylized in vibrant patterns, symbolize dreams, light and guidance.

The moon, in its different phases, inspires jewelry with clean lines, sometimes set with stones evoking its cratered textures.

The constellations, reproduced in diamonds or precious stones, offer delicate creations with settings of stones of various sizes, shapes and colors, often personalized according to astrological signs.

The symbolism of the sky: a dreamlike and mystical dimension

The sky and the stars carry within them a powerful symbolism that has seduced jewelers and jewelry lovers. They evoke infinity, mystery and spirituality, while embodying destiny and protection.

The major jewelry houses have been inspired by the cosmos through collections that we will detail in a future article. Here they are: Under the stars of Van Cleef & Arpels, The Skies of Chaumet, Divine Star of Mauboussin, Rose des vents by Dior, Celeste by Boucheron, Stellar by Dior Joaillerie or Stellar Times by Louis Vuitton Joaillerie.

On the same topic, you might also like to read 
The ocean, a source of inspiration for jewelry