Women designers in jewelry

PRODUCED BY KYRA BRENZINGER, Editor-in-Chief

At thesecond-hand of March 8, celebrating International Women's Rights Day, let's discover the jewelers who have shaken up this traditionally masculine profession. 

The first women who dared to impose themselves

In the jewelry industry, women are rare, but Suzanne Belperron is a name that every auction house dreams of. His creations are the most sought after on the planet and break all records. However, this young woman of modest origins went to Paris in 1919 with her Besançon Beaux-Arts diploma in hand to work alongside the widow of jeweler René Boivin. Particularly innovative, it contributes to the reputation of the Boivin house. But wishing to create her own collections, she joined forces in 1932 with Bernard Herz who gave her total creative freedom. She designed jewelry with voluptuous and generous shapes using unconventional materials at the time, such as rock crystal, chalcedony or carnelian. She does not sign her jewelry, but her lines are particularly identifiable and she declares “my style is my signature”. Unfortunately, during the occupation, Bernard Hertz was sent to Auschwitz from which he did not return. In his will, he entrusted his business to Suzanne Belperron and her son. The designer continued her creations for a cosmopolitan and famous clientele until 1970 by creating tailor-made jewelry like Haute Couture. 

The first women who dared to impose themselves (continued)

It is precisely the world of couture that will revolutionize that of jewelry with the arrival of Gabrielle Chanel who settled in 1910 rue Cambon in Paris. Her boyish outfits playing with British-style jacquard or equestrian-style quilting bring real modernity to fashion. But she doesn't stop there, Coco Chanel also wants to revolutionize jewelry! In 1932, she created a jewelry collection, entitled Bijoux de Diamants, presented in her private mansion. Inspired by couture, she creates necklaces in the shape of fringes or ribbons that twirl, transformed into necklaces or bracelets. Diamond stars or comets hang on a shoulder or in the hair. His exhibition was a real success, but aroused the jealousy of the jewelers of Place Vendôme who demanded that the partner diamond dealer Chanel not to entrust him with stones anymore. The designer must dismantle her jewelry to return the diamonds. But that’s without counting on his determination. She will create couture jewelry that will become iconic pieces. This year, the house Chanel will celebrate the 90th anniversary of this unique 1932 collection and will have some nice surprises in store for us in July during Haute Couture and Haute Joaillerie week…

Until then, find everyone our jewelry Chanel on 58 Facettes

The creators of a style

In the House Dior, beyond the creative genius of Christian Dior, a woman has revolutionized the codes of jewelry: Castellane's victory. Starting his career with Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel while supervising the costume jewelry collections, she was recruited in 1998 by the house of Christian Dior to launch a first jewelry collection. Going against the trend of other houses, it launches jewelry set with fine stones: beryls, tourmalines or opals. Like candy, its generous cocktail rings are launching a real trend on Place Vendôme. In a rock'n roll spirit, she dares to use jewelry to inscribe mischievous messages like her “Coquine” ring or her “Oui” collection. Also loving the retro style, Victoire de Castellane does not hesitate to reinvent Marie-Antoinette ribbons or engraved coral roses. His latest success, the Rose des vents, is currently embodied by the actress-model Cara Delevingne who, through her magnetism, brings true modernity to this collection. 

The creators of a style (continued)

In a completely different style, Caroline Scheufele, co-director with her brother of the house Chopard, is also responsible for the women's collections in the jewelry and High Jewelry division. A true pioneer, she was the first to partner with the Cannes Festival to create its Palme d'Or in 2013, which has since become an eco-responsible Gold Fairmined prize. On the red carpets, the biggest international stars wear the finery of Chopard decorated with the most beautiful stones in the world. She is particularly fond of animals and regularly collaborates with the WWF organization. Elephants, tigers, polar bears are interpreted in jewelry and question us about the preciousness of our land. The iconic collection undoubtedly remains the Happy D collectionialmonds. This system of moving diamonds held by two glass walls was invented in 1976, a period accompanying the emancipation of women. Today, Julia Roberts has been chosen to embody this feminine freedom, presenting both jewelry and watchmaking. The first collection Happy Diamonds round shape was completed by the Happy Hearts featuring hearts in homage to precious feelings. 

The new generation

Many major brands today call on the creative talent of women from diverse backgrounds to rejuvenate the brand's style and instill new ideas. This is the case of Claire Choisne, artistic director of Boucheron since 2011. A graduate of the Haute Ecole de Joaillerie, she was able to bring a true vision of High Jewelry. Constantly looking for new techniques, Claire Choisne approached NASA to capture air in an aerogel to create a Drop of Sky pendant. Another recent example, she called on Saint-Gobain to create her Holographic High Jewelry collection. It sprays based on powdersilver and titanium, ceramic or rock crystal pieces to create holographic and futuristic effects. On the jewelry side, iconic pieces remain the ring Quatre presenting the know-how of the house Boucheron since 1893. The animal theme is also a great classic with the Serpent Bohème in the lead and followed by the friendly hedgehog. The blue cabochon of the Jaïpur ring recalls the prestigious past of the Maharaja of Patiala who came to Boucheron bring a trunk with 7500 diamonds and 1500 emeralds. Another theme that Claire Choisne revisited in her latest collection…

The new generation (continued)

The brand Bvlgari was established in 1884 by a talented man Sotiro Bulgari who laid the creative foundations for the brand. It is notably with his 2 sons, Constantino and Giorgio, that Sotiro Bulgari decides to move upmarket by offering jewelry. In the 1950s, the brand was in the spotlight thanks to cinema and Elizabeth Taylor who, during the filming of Cleopatra, wore a wristwatch in the shape of a snake with emerald eyes. The first piece Serpenti was born, the iconic piece par excellence! Today, the creation of jewelry and High Jewelry is entrusted to an Italian woman: Lucia Silvestri. While she started at the age of 18 in the gemmology department, Bvlgari entrusted her with creative direction in 2013. A great enthusiast of stones, she knew how to showcase the magic of stones through her latest Magnifica High Jewelry collection. Cabochon-shaped stones are part of the brand's DNA and are like musical notes, they bring joy and emotion.



Discover all our collections:
Rings Chanel Quilted Woman
Rings Chanel Camélia Women
Dior Rose des Vents Bracelets for Women
Dior Women's Rings
Jewelry Bulgari Women
Jewelry Boucheron Serpent Bohème 
Jewelry Boucheron Quatre
Rings Chopard Happy Diamonds