The Rise of Women in Jewelry: Creators and Leaders in the Spotlight

The world of jewelry, long dominated by male figures, is undergoing a major transformation with the rise of talented and influential women. Whether they are visionary creators or bold leaders, These women are shaping the future of luxury. To thesecond-hand International Women's Day, March 8, here is a focus on some of these personalities who are redefining contemporary jewelry. 

Contemporary female geniuses

In the world of jewelry, certain designers have made history by imposing their bold and innovative vision. Each of them has transcended traditional codes to offer iconic collections that reflect their artistic identity, as well as the DNA of their brand. Maison.

Claire Choisne – Boucheron

Artistic Director of Boucheron Since 2011, Claire Choisne has been pushing the boundaries of fine jewelry by incorporating new materials, such as marble and aerogel, and playing with avant-garde concepts. Her bold creativity breathes a breath of fresh air into a maison historical. Here are its high jewelry collections so emblematic that they no longer need to be introduced: Carte blanche with experimental creations highlighting innovative techniques and materials; Holographic : a futuristic collection using optical effects and aerogel to capture light in new ways, as well as Contemplation : jewelry inspired by the fleeting nature of time, playing on transparency and evanescence.

Valérie Messika – Messika

Founder and artistic director of the brand Messika In 2005, Valérie Messika established a resolutely modern vision of diamonds. Heir to family know-how, she has democratized the wearing of diamonds on a daily basis thanks to light and dynamic creations that breathe new energy into jewelry. Among her flagship creations, we find the iconic Move, set with mobile diamonds sliding in gold rails; My Twin : a harmonious marriage between pear-shaped and emerald-shaped diamonds and finally Lucky Move, graphic medallions that revisit the iconic talisman motif.

Gaia Repossi – Repossi

At the head of the artistic direction of Repossi In 2007, Gaia Repossi modernized the family legacy—the brand was created by her grandfather in 1957—with architectural and refined jewelry. Inspired by contemporary art, she favors graphic and minimalist lines that appeal to new generations. She became known for her collections: Crimped On Empty which demonstrates an innovative technique giving the illusion of floating diamonds on the skin, Antifer : rings and bracelets with marked angles, infinitely stackable, as well as wedding rings Berbers with pure lines, inspired by traditional Berber jewelry.

Victory of Castellane – Dior

Since 1999, Victoire de Castellane has been the iconic designer of Dior jewelry. Her bold, exuberant and colorful style has brought maison into a new era, blending fantasy and fine jewelry with dreamlike and narrative collections. Among its iconic creations are the Compass Rose with medals evoking Christian Dior's travels and his love of lucky charms; Dior Gem : an explosion of colors and precious stones in bold compositions, Dior at Versailles : jewelry inspired by the architecture and history of the Palace of Versailles; and many more…

Lydia Courteille

An antique dealer and gemologist, Lydia Courteille became a designer in 1998. She is known for her extraordinary and surreal jewelry, inspired by history, mythology, and ancient civilizations. Her creations are true works of art, where each stone tells a story, including: Amazon : jewelry inspired by the lush and mysterious nature of the Amazon rainforest, Nocturnes : a captivating collection with dark stones and mysterious patterns and Extraordinary Journey : an exploration of myths and legends through exceptional pieces.

Elsa Peretti – Tiffany & Co.

A designer whose status is already "historic", Elsa Peretti revolutionized jewelry at Tiffany & Co. in the 1970s with its clean lines and organic shapes inspired by nature and the human body. His minimalist and sculptural approach continues to influence jewelry design, recognized through collections whose names speak for themselves, such as the cuffs Bone, the jewelry Open Heart And Diamonds by the Yard®.

Charlotte Chesnais – From fashion to jewelry

After working for Balenciaga, Charlotte Chesnais launched her own brand in 2015. Both a designer and an entrepreneur, she infuses her creations with a sculptural and minimalist vision, redefining the traditional codes of jewelry.

Visionary Women Leaders

These designers and leaders embody the rise of women in a sector where excellence and innovation reign supreme. Combining tradition and modernity, boldness and expertise, they are rewriting the history of jewelry, proving that female creativity and leadership have never been more vibrant.

Camille Vever – Vever

Since 2021, Camille Vever has brought the maison Vever, an emblematic Art Nouveau jewel that seemed forgotten since 1982, celebrated its 200th anniversary. With a strong commitment to ethics and sustainability, it breathes a modern vision into this prestigious heritage: adding recycled gold, lab-grown or second-hand diamonds, and jewel cases made from recycled materials.The new Vever" also received the Palme d'Or for French jewelry in 2024, awarded by the Comité de France."It rewards 200 years of history and dedicates a new piece of jewelry made in France", underlines the president.

Sabina Belli – Pomellato

CEO of Pomellato, Sabina Belli has established herself as one of the most influential female figures in jewelry. Championing values of inclusivity and responsibility, she propelled the Italian brand onto the international stage by showcasing craftsmanship and stylistic boldness.

Céline Assimon – De Beers

As CEO of De Beers Jewelers, Céline Assimon plays a key role in the transformation of the maison towards a more sustainable and ethical approach. She has implemented diamond traceability initiatives using blockchain, thus ensuring a responsible and transparent origin of precious stones. Under her leadership, De Beers actively commits to practices that are more respectful of the environment and mining communities, thus redefining conscious luxury.

Hélène Poulit-Duquesne – Boucheron

At the head of Boucheron Since 2015, Hélène Poulit-Duquesne has breathed a breath of modernity into this maison historical. She strengthened the brand's digital presence by developing e-commerce and immersive online experiences, while supporting innovative collections under the artistic direction of Claire Choisne. Her leadership has enabled Boucheron to reinvent itself while preserving its heritage, thus offering bold and contemporary jewelry.

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