The History of Zenith

The watchmaking house Zenith is almost 150 years old! In this article, we give it a little retrospective on its history in order to discover what made the house so successful.

Zenith's rise year after year

It is in 1865 that Georges Favre-Jacot founded the house, choosing the name Zénith, to refer to the Arabic Samt Al-Ras meaning “the path above the head”.

From 1880 that the house expands internationally: first in Russia, Europe and the American continent, then in Asian countries. 
In 1897, the development of the Zenith caliber was born: a reliable movement made using standardized production methods. It is one of the house's movements that has enjoyed the greatest longevity, accompanying Zenith with different variations for almost half a century, including in chronometry competitions.

The house received its first prizes in the 1900s. First, at the Universal Exhibition in Paris, where it featured among the latest technological developments from around the world, the Manufacture was honored with a gold medal for its innovations both on a technical and aesthetic level.
In 1905 the opening of the first integrated factory where everything would be produced on site, in Le Locle (canton of Neuchâtel, Switzerland); particularly linked to the aeronautical and military world, as evidenced by the Weems models intended for fighter pilots in the 1930s-1940s.

In the years 1930, Zenith strengthens its international reputation as a leading manufacturer of chronometers and other precision and measuring instruments in many fields. Public institutions such as the Swiss Post and astronomical observatories as well as banks, insurance companies and even the military choose Zenith as their supplier of choice.

During the fierce timing competitions of the years 1950, Zenith and its chronometry laboratory unveiled a movement that would surpass all others: the Calibre 135. It included several innovative features that allowed it to win an unprecedented five consecutive chronometry awards from the Neuchâtel Observatory from 1950 to 1954. More broadly, Zenith movements have won more than 2,330 chronometry awards over the years.

In 1999, this is the beginning of a new phase for the Manufacture, Zenith becomes one of the very first watch brands to join the LVMH Group. It offers the group its unrivaled expertise in vertical watchmaking and can count on the group for its development and prosperity.

The legend of El Primero in the watchmaking world

The movement The First by Zenith, designed in 1965 and launched in 1969, marked a turning point in watchmaking with its high-frequency automatic chronograph (36,000 vibrations per hour), capable of measuring time to the hundredth of a second. However, the arrival of quartz watches in the 1970s plunged the Swiss watch industry into crisis. In 1975, production of El Primero stopped. Opposed to this decision, Charles Vermot saved the plans and tools of the caliber by hiding them, ensuring the survival of this revolutionary technology for future generations.

The El Primero was reborn in 1980 thanks to an order from Rolex, which restarted production with the 4030 caliber. In 1989, the El Primero returned to the market, and Zenith continued to innovate, notably with models such as the Chronomaster Open in 2003 and the El Primero Tourbillon in 2004. In 2019, to celebrate the 50th anniversary in 2019, Zenith offers a 50-year warranty on selected models, paying homage to the first automatic chronograph ever made.

Zenith's iconic models

• Chronomaster
  Launched in 1994, the Chronomaster collection is undoubtedly the most emblematic of the Zenith house. Famous for its movement The First, The Chronomaster's design has stood the test of time, retaining a classic look while incorporating modern technical innovations. Its precision and history make it a must-have for watch enthusiasts.

• Defy
  The Defy unisex collection was created in 1969 and embodies Zenith's futuristic and avant-garde vision. It highlights technical innovation through new materials such as titanium and ceramic. The modern design combined with extreme performance make it a popular watch for high-tech enthusiasts.

• Pilot
  The Pilot collection celebrates Zenith's heritage in the world of aviation. Its watches, recognizable by their large, legible dials and oversized crowns, are directly inspired by the first pilot's watches designed by the brand at the beginning of the 20th century. The watches Pilot are prized for their rugged, retro look, while still offering modern technical performance.

• Elite
  Through the Elite collection, Zenith revisits its own past, reflecting the classicism and timeless elegance of the house over time. Available in Classic and Moonphase versions, these unisex watches with their refined, minimalist and graphic design are aimed at customers looking for a discreet but sophisticated dress watch. The caliber Elite, a high-precision automatic movement, equips these elegant watches which embody traditional know-how. 

• Icons
  The Icons collection is a series of limited-edition vintage watches, showcasing Zenith’s most sought-after historical models, which we will see in detail shortly. These rare pieces, carefully restored, are intended for collectors and watch enthusiasts looking for authentic watches full of history. 

Collectible watches from luxurious collaborations

Zenith and Art Nouveau

In 1910, Zenith collaborated with some big names in theArt Nouveau including Alfons Mucha and René Lalique, on numerous pocket watches as well as miniature clocks that merge watchmaking art and industry in a creative and innovative way.

Zenith x A. Cairolli

A very limited edition of 11 Zenith x A. Cairolli watches in 2022, including 10 in platinum and 1 in niobium, all powered by the legendary caliber 135-O. This caliber, where the "O" means Observatory, was designed to meet the most stringent requirements of chronometry competitions. These watches were restored under the supervision of master watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, ensuring exceptional precision and high-quality finishing. Today, these pieces are traded between 100,000€ and 300,000€, testifying to their rarity and value in the world of collector's watches.

Zenith x Thomas Engel

This collaboration gave rise to around thirty models of pocket watches equipped with the caliber 5011 Zenith, produced in the 1980s, which have now become virtually impossible to find, except for two unique prototypes of flyback chronographs in steel and titanium, designed in 1998 by designer Marc Alfieri. One of these two chronometers was sold at auction in 2011 at Chativesle (OVV Auction House) for 24 480€, highlighting the interest of collectors in these rare pieces.

You might like this collection 
Zenith Watches
On the same house, you might also like to read
Zenith: The Legend of El Primero