Dinh Van : 60 ans de liberté et de création célébrés chez Christie’s

September 5, 2025

Dinh Van : 60 years of freedom and creation celebrated at Christie's

In this month of September 2025, the maison Dinh Van famous six decades of boldness and innovation through an immersive and event-based exhibition organized at Christie's in Paris, from September 3 to 13, 2025. Recognized for its accessible, modern and refined jewelry, the brand is establishing itself as a key player in contemporary jewelry trends of the moment.

The origins of Dinh Van

“I had touched the metal, a passion was born: I loved gold!”

Founded in 1965 by Jean Dinh Van, son of a lacquer craftsman and graduate of Decorative Arts, the maison was born from the desire to shake up conventions and make jewelry a true sculpture.

By participating in the Montreal World's Fair in 1967, he was spotted by Cartier New York, maison with whom he collaborated for around ten years, creating jewelry inspired by everyday life and characterized by their simplicity and bearing the rare double signature Cartier Dinh Van.

Rooted in the social revolution of the 60s and 70s, Dinh Van accompanied the emancipation of women and the evolution of design in France, collaborating with artistic figures, notably Pierre Cardin And Paco Rabanne for whom he created avant-garde jewelry for his fashion shows. Later, he created sculptural jewelry inspired by the artist's works Diem Phung Thi and designs the director's Fine Arts Academician's sword Pierre Schoendoerffer.

Then, the maison Dinh Van quickly embraced an international presence, distributing his creations in the United States, where he chose to set up shop on Madison Avenue in 1977.

Today, the spirit of jewelry Dinh Van, it is above all the search for the right gesture and the love of metal, explored through refined shapes, adapted to the rhythms and desires of contemporary women and men. His works are even included in museum collections, symbolizing a style at the crossroads of art and design, free and timeless.

The iconic collections of Dinh Van

Among the creations that have marked the history of Dinh Van, several collections embody freedom of creation and modernity specific to the maison, listed in chronological order:

Lame de Rasoir (1970s) : Created in the early 1970s, this collection reflects the non-conformist and playful spirit which has always animated the maison Dinh Van. Here the designer diverts an everyday object, the lame de rasoir, to make it a minimalist and graphic jewel with clean lines.
Menottes (1976) : A strong symbol of the 70s, the collection Menottes East branded Jeans Dinh Van at a time when jewelry becomes a vector of social expression and freedom. The idea is to transform the clasp, usually hidden, into a visible central element, in the form of a pair of stylized handcuffs. This jewel embodies both emotional connection and freedom of openness, blending utilitarian aesthetics with emotional meaning.

Lock (late 1970s) : This collection embodies a refined geometric minimalism, where pure and functional design prevails. Inspired by the modern movement and the rigor of industrial design, Serrure plays with the balance of shapes and introduces a discreet sophistication by inserting diamonds into a rigorous metallic structure.

Seventies (1970s, recently revisited collection) : With a retro influence, the creations Seventies make tribute to the vibrant and daring spirit of the 1970s, a period of freedom rich in artistic and cultural innovations. This range mixes geometric patterns and pop aesthetics, playing on vivid contrasts, round and square shapes, while retaining the sobriety of the maison.

Pi (1991) : Appearing in the early 1990s, the collection Pi is a contemporary reinterpretation of an ancestral Chinese symbol, the disc Pi, often carved from jade and symbolizing the sky, infinity and harmony. Jeans Dinh Van is shaping for the first time a pendant in 24-carat gold hammered by hand, reproducing the perfect circular shape of the disc. Each piece is unique, made according to a ancient hammering technique which makes the surface lively and irregular, embodying the philosophy of the maison : a jewel that is both sculpted and worn every day.
Pulse (2000s and reissues) : This collection is inspired codes from the 70s with a more contemporary touch, evoking the rhythm and energy of the heart through undulating and dynamic lines. It mixes gold and diamonds to create a vibrating effect, symbolizing the beat of life. Pulse is a celebration of movement, combining modernity and emotion in a design that accentuates the fluidity and power of the forms.

The exhibition Dinh Van at Christie's

The exhibition “Dinh Van, 60 years of freedom and creation” brings together heritage pieces, archival documents, prototypes and reissues of historical models as le Pavé (1969) and the double Serrure from the 70s. Visitors, guided by curator Vanessa Cron, discover the diversity of materials used (gold, silver, steel), the influence of artistic movements and the permanent dialogue between simplicity of volumes and artisanal excellence.

The scenography emphasizes the evolution of forms and functionality : thematic display cases, chronological panels retracing the history of the maison, focus on artistic collaborations and interactive space revealing the creative process of the sculptor-jeweler.

Several key pieces are on display, including: the ring "Two Pearls" (created with Pierre Cardin), the Menottes and their variations, the Pulse models and Seventies, witnesses to the creative effervescence of the 70s, the original prototypes exhibited for the first time, the reissues of the Pavé and the double Serrure, in homage to the avant-garde spirit of 1969 and 1970.