COSC, Hallmark of Geneva… Understanding watch certifications

In watchmaking, the multitude of certifications, labels and titles helps promote exceptional craftsmanship while guiding buyers in an increasingly complex and competitive world. These distinctions ensure transparency between official recognition and technical certification. (such as precision, resistance), and label of origin which guarantees the authenticity of manufacture. They also reflect the ability of a brand to meet high standards of craftsmanship, essential elements for building trust among collectors and novices alike.

Labels of origin and authenticity

Swiss Made: definition, conditions and historical impact

The label "Swiss Made" requires that 60% of the value of the watch is genérée in Switzerland. This standard applies to the case, movement, final assembly and quality control and requires at a minimum that the movement is Swiss, assembled and controlled locally.  This label constitutes the global symbol of Swiss know-how since the 19th century, bringing real added value to the watch in terms of confidence and prestige.

Origin France Guaranteed, German Made... specific to each country

In France, the label "Guaranteed French Origin" requires that at least 50% of the total cost is incurred in France, on watches that are often entry-level or mid-range. The "German Made" (Or "Made in Germany") imposes similar criteria, focused on local production and traceability, both of which promote the reputation of the national watchmaking sector (for example Junghans or Nomos for Germany).

Technical certifications

COSC certification: tests, criteria, brands concerned

THE COSC (Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute) analyzes accuracy, shock resistance, and temperature resistance. The tests include five watch positions and three different temperatures, ensuring that the movement remains reliable under varying conditions. This applies to major brands, but also to more confidential manufacturers who wish to display internationally recognized Swiss rigor.

METAS certification (Master Chronometer)

METAS certification requires that the watch has passed the COSC, then eight additional tests: ultimate precision, water resistance, resistance to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss, operation at different angles and positions, power reserve, etc. Omega, Tudor and other pioneers value it to guarantee extreme levels of reliability and innovation. This dual certification establishes a new technical standard, geared towards extreme uses and demanding daily life.

Geneva Hallmark: fine watchmaking, criteria and emblematic brands

THE "Geneva Hallmark" is the symbol of Geneva's fine watchmaking since 1886To obtain it, the watch must be fully assembled and adjusted in the canton of Geneva, and comply with 12 strict criteria defined by Timelab (finishes, decoration, reliability, origin of components, etc.). Vacheron Constantin And Chopard illustrate this excellence; Patek Philippe, formerly certified, now offers its own internal hallmark of excellence. This label allows the customer to identify the most refined models and testifies to the tradition and prestige of the Geneva sector.

International and standard labels

ISO 6425 standard for diving watches

The standard ISO 6425 regulates professional diving watches. It requires a minimum water resistance of 100 meters, tests for resistance to extreme temperatures, saline corrosion, shocks and magnetic exposure (ISO 764). A means of measuring time underwater (unidirectional rotating bezel) is mandatory, with clear markings every 5 minutes, perfect visibility in the dark, and the crown's resistance to high pressures. Compliant watches mention "Miscellaneous" or graphics attesting to the certification in their documentation or on the dial.t

ISO 22810: Everyday waterproofing

The standard ISO 22810 applies to all so-called "waterproof" watches, whether they are city or sports models. To obtain this certificate, a watch must undergo a series of laboratory tests simulating exposure to water in everyday life: static immersion, temperature variations, water jets, etc. This regulation ensures that the watch can withstand uses such as showering or swimming on the surface, but excludes deep dives. Registration "Water Resistant" on the case or dial, often accompanied by a pressure indication (e.g. 5 or 10 bars), attests to compliance with the standard and allows the consumer to choose the right model according to their actual needs.

ISO 1413: Impact resistance

The standard ISO 1413 defines the tests that ensure the robustness of a watch against everyday shocks. Watchmakers subject the timepiece to two successive impacts, one on the side of the case, the other directly on the glass. After these tests, the watch must continue to function without affecting its precision. This standard is essential for professionals, athletes or active users, who seek mechanical reliability in the face of the hazards of modern life. The mention "shock resistant" or the reference to ISO 1413 on the technical documentation constitutes an additional guarantee of quality.

DIN 8306: The German requirement for diving

The standard DIN 8306, equivalent to ISO 6425 but applied in Germany, sets the criteria for diving watches. It imposes a series of extensive tests: pressure tightness, resistance to thermal variations, shocks and corrosion. The requirements for underwater readability, as well as the presence of a rotating bezel, are also strictly controlled. A watch certified to DIN 8306 can be recognized by this specific mention on the dial, the case back or the documents provided at the time of purchase. Divers can thus rely on a recognized standard, guaranteeing optimal safety in an underwater environment

Sector and professional certifications

FHH (Foundation of Haute Horlogerie) Certification

Certification of the FHH (Foundation of Haute Horlogerie) is today the only international passport validating a foundation of theoretical and technical knowledge in watchmaking, recognized by the major Swiss Maisons. It consists of modules on movement technology, complications, market players and noble materials. The diploma courses awarded by the Fondation Haute Horlogerie or integrated into specialized courses (for example, the ISG Luxury Program) offer great value and a major advantage for working in the high-end sector.

Qualifying training and sector-specific qualifications

At the same time, several schools and associations offer certifications at various levels (Companion, Watchmaker's Diploma, etc.), which ensure expertise and professionalization in the trade. This structures access to a valued career and encourages continuous improvement.

Distinctions by competition and prize

Grand Prix of Geneva Watchmaking and other awards

THE GPHG (Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix), real "Oscars" of the sector, each year recognizes the best models in around twenty categories: innovation, design, technique, complication, sport… The ceremony, followed internationally, exhibits the finalist watches in a traveling exhibition and reinforces the reputation of the award-winning brands and models.

The role of prices in brand awareness

Winning an award at the GPHG or in international competitions (Aiguille d'Or, Design Awards, etc.) increases visibility, credibility, and interest from the trade press and buyers. Brands rely on these distinctions to support their global reach and legitimize their place in watchmaking history.

Identification of labels and distinctive signs

Certifications, labels and awards can be found:

• On the dial (mention "Chronometer", "Swiss Made", "Geneva Hallmark", specific logos)
  

• On the case back or movement (engraving of the hallmark, serial number, holograms)
  

• In official documents (warranty certificates, COSC cards, METAS or FHH notifications, etc.)
  

• On the packaging or accompanying papers offered by the brand

The distinctive signs vary according to the maison and certification, but always allow to reliably identify the level of requirement and the origin of the model.

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