Boucheron, the jeweler of light

PRODUCED BY KYRA BRENZINGER, EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

First jeweler to set up on Place Vendôme in 1893, Boucheron has been able to reinvent itself in the image of the futuristic creations, designed today by Claire Choisne. Let's go back through the fascinating history of this house to discover its iconic creations.

From the Palais-Royal to the universal exhibitions

Frederick Boucheron, passionate about jewelry and Parisian architecture, first settled in 1858 in the Valois gallery at the Palais-Royal in Paris. His draper parents taught him the beauty of fabrics and the quality of French know-how. He therefore opened his own workshop and quickly won a gold medal in 1867 at the Universal Exhibition in Paris. He did it again in 1889, at the Universal Exhibition in Paris and launched his first Question Mark necklace which made it possible to create a necklace enveloping the neck without a clasp. Today, this iconic necklace is regularly reinterpreted in the shape of ivy or feathers, arranged like an open boa. Frederick Boucheron paid particular attention to the comfort and fluidity of the jewelry in homage to her parents' profession as a draper. Its gold necklaces, scarves and belt jewelry are particularly known for their elegance of wear.

From Place Vendôme to internationalization

In 1893, Frédéric Boucheron chose No. 26 Place Vendôme in Paris for its exposure to the sun and the quality of the light which radiated on the stones and its ornaments. The famous Countess of Castiglione also lived in this mansion. Mistress of Napoleon III and famous for her beauty, she adorned herself with the precious jewels of Boucheron. Today, in the private mansion entirely taken over by Boucheron and renovated in 2018, it is possible to discover the secret red lacquer cabinet of the Countess of Castiglione. Many personalities such as Belle Otéro, George Sand or Marcel Proust have also called on the jeweler to dazzle guests in sumptuous evenings. Faced with success, Frédéric Boucheron opened its first store in Moscow in 1897 and counted Empress Alexandra Feodorovna among its loyal customers. Boucheron in 1903 also opened a store in London and an office in New York. Its jewelry and brooches make its reputation, without forgetting men's accessories such as cufflinks and tie pins.

The period Art Deco and the Maharaja of Patiala

His son Louis Boucheron took over as head of the company upon the death of his father in 1902 and continued to develop the creative force of the house. In 1925, the International Exhibition of Decorative and Industrial Arts in Paris laid all the stylistic bases for theArt Deco. The House Boucheron won the Grand Prix and developed jewelry with geometric and clean lines. The famous minaudières are also inventive accessories allowing elegant women to put on makeup during chic evenings. In 1926, Louis Boucheron leaves for India to present his collections to the Maharajahs. In his turn, in 1928, the Maharajah of Patiala, escorted by his numerous servants, came with 6 boxes of precious stones to have jewelry made by the house Boucheron. This is the first time that the house has received an order of this magnitude, resulting in 149 exceptional pieces. The current creative director, Claire Choisne, has talentedly reinterpreted this unique story by staging the Bleu de Jodhpur High Jewelry collection, notably using marble and sapphires in homage to the blue city of Rajasthan.  

The bestiary and its collection Serpent Bohème

As early as 1888, upon his return from an exotic trip, Frédéric Boucheron chose the snake to create a necklace for his wife Gabrielle. However, it was not until 1968 that the collection was born. Serpent Bohème. This emblematic collection is regularly reinterpreted, ranging from a very lively snake as with the collection Trouble to very stylized pieces such as Toi & Moi rings Serpent Bohème with the golden scales of the precious reptile. Many friends enrich the collection of the house's fantastic bestiary Boucheron like the friendly Hans the Hedgehog, the wise Turtle or the twirling ladybug. These pieces are particularly sought after today with the return of very trendy brooches and bestiaries.

Jewelery know-how and the collection Quatre

Created in 2004, the collection Quatre has become a great best seller of the house. Originally, the ring was made up of four different rings highlighting the know-how of the house: the grosgrain reminiscent of silk fabric, the diamond points evoking precious stones, the gadroon pattern very emblematic of Boucheron and the smooth ring, sometimes enhanced with diamonds. Since then, all combinations are possible and the rings are welded together by combining new colors such as rose gold or chocolate color. Perfectly mixed, this collection becomes a symbol of today's new unions.