Holy of Cartier : a watchmaking icon since 1904

For over a century, there Maison Cartier embodies elegance and audacity through its watch creations. Among them, the Santos of Cartier stands out for its avant-garde design and its fascinating history which remains an essential reference in men's watchmaking today.

The origins of the Santos watch

It was in 1904 that Santos was born, the fruit of the friendship between Louis Cartier and the Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont. The latter, an aviation pioneer, expressed his frustration at not being able to read the time easily in mid-flight with a pocket watch. Sensitive to this problem, Louis Cartier then designs a wristwatch with visible screws and a case perfectly integrated into the bracelet. A real revolution in a world where pocket watches still dominated. 

From the moment it was launched in 1911, the Santos seduced with its unique aesthetic: a rectangular design with softened corners, accompanied by a refined dial decorated with Roman numerals and blued hands, which made it an object both practical, elegant and daring, faithful to the DNA of Cartier. 

The evolution of the Santos de Cartier

First equipped with a leather strap, the Santos evolved in the 1970s, more precisely in 1978, with the appearance of a bracelet made entirely of metal links, in steel and yellow gold, a completely new combination in the world of luxury: the association of a precious metal with a non-precious one. This model met with dazzling success and democratized the use of steel in watchmaking.

Later, in 2004, Cartier unveils the Santos 100 to celebrate its centenary: a more imposing model with contemporary proportions, paying homage to the innovative spirit of the original.

Then in 2018, the Santos was further modernized with a revisited version, equipped with a thinner and curved case to better fit the shape of the wrist and be more comfortable to wear. The polished bezel now extends towards the bracelet in a very fluid way, as if one were the natural extension of the other. Also, the model now offers an interchangeable bracelet system “QuickSwitch”, allowing its owner to change the bracelet with ease, but also

Historically, the Santos was the very first watch for airplane pilots, intended for a specific audience, with specific demands, other than simply reading the time. It is also the first wristwatch for men. Because until then, this type of watch was reserved for women. 

Today, the Santos of Cartier comes in several shapes (square for the most classic, round oval, etc.), sizes, thicknesses, various complications (moon phases, perpetual calendar, chronograph, etc.), movements (quartz, manual or automatic), metals (gold, platinum, carbon, steel…), curved or straight cases… for a total of more than 100 references! 

Vintage Santos: Rare Watches

Over the decades, several variations have emerged, each bringing a unique interpretation of this iconic model. Now, these vintage models are no longer marketed and cannot be found in stores, so only available second-hand!

Santos Round 

In a process of stylistic experimentation, Cartier proposed a version round of Santos in the years 1930. Although it moves away from the iconic square shape, it retains its codes: classic dial with Roman numerals, visible screws on the bezel and blued hands. 

Santos Oval

There Santos Oval appears in the years 1960, adopting an elongated and rounded case. Its fluid and sophisticated design offers a softer alternative to the rigor of the square. Its jewelry finishes and its dial with harmonious proportions make it a model prized by lovers of vintage watches with a singular style.

Santos Vendome 

Introduced in 1973, there Santos Vendome revisits the collection with a round case and a minimalist bezel. Its originality lies in its integrated bracelet, attached to the case by two iconic clasps in the shape of crossbar, a distinctive detail that gives it a unique identity. Available in gold, steel or a two-tone version, it seduces with its timeless elegance and sophisticated design.

Santos Galbée 

Launched in 1987, there Santos Galbée modernizes the original design by softening its lines, once again. Its slightly curved case fits the wrist better, offering optimal comfort. This model retains the emblematic elements of the Santos: square dial, Roman numerals and bracelet with visible screws. Available in steel or in a gold/steel combination, the Santos Galbée remains one of the most sought-after vintage models.

Santos Lady

Inspired by the aircraft of the same name designed by Santos-Dumont, the Santos Lady is a female version of the Santos, launched in 2004 to celebrate the centenary of the original model. With its more compact and delicate case, it embodies elegance and minimalism, with fewer screws, it is also similar to the model Panthère of Cartier. 

Santos on the wrist of icons

A symbol of charisma and audacity, the Santos was promoted by Alberto Santos-Dumont himself, and many other famous figures throughout the ages. In the 80s, the Santos became the favorite accessory of personalities and aristocrats who contributed to its legend. It was even found on the wrist of Michael Douglas, in an all-gold version, in Oliver Stone's film "Wall Street" in 1988. 

Also seen on the wrists of actors like Alain Delon and Tom Cruise, and those of contemporary artists, the Santos remains a watch prized for its heritage, and remains a timelessel, brilliantly combining tradition and innovation. To date, it is estimated that Cartier sold nearly 2 million Santos across the world. 

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