Mikimoto and Tasaki: brands to follow specializing in pearls

The pearls have always occupied a special place in jewelry. Over the centuries, their cultivation and transformation into exceptional jewelry have evolved, notably thanks to Japanese innovations, which gave rise to cultured pearls, produced from oysters or pearl mussels raised in a controlled environment. These pearls are created when a small pearl or piece of shell is placed into the oyster or mussel, which then secretes a substance called nacre to coat the pearl or shell. Over time, this process results in the formation of a pearl.

In this article, discover which Houses have established themselves as major players in this niche market.

Mikimoto 

The history of Mikimoto is inseparable from that of the cultured pearl. In 1893, Kokichi Mikimoto, a visionary entrepreneur, succeeded in cultivating the world's first cultured pearl, revolutionizing the pearl industry. At a time when natural pearls were rare and extremely expensive, this breakthrough made them more widely available while ensuring consistent quality. ”My dream is to adorn the necks of all the women in the world with pearls.” - Kokichi Mikimoto, Founder of the Maison, having devoted his entire life to pearls, to the point of being baptized The Pearl King. He continued to cultivate many types of pearls, including black and white South Sea cultured pearls.

He established his first boutique in Ginza, (Tokyo) in 1899. His commitment to excellence and his artisanal expertise quickly made the brand a global reference. 

Kokichi Mikimoto sent skilled craftsmen to Europe to learn the latest jewelry techniques, including L'Art Deco And Art Nouveau. Drawing on knowledge brought back from Europe, he spent decades reinterpreting traditional Japanese craftsmanship and European manufacturing techniques to create the Mikimoto style. Beyond being the inventor of cultured pearls, he laid the foundations of jewelry in Japan. Today, Mikimoto continues to produce pearls Akoya renowned for their elegant shine and delicate color, they are highly prized throughout the world; from Tahiti and South Seas (white, black and gold), which are the largest. They have a thick layer of nacre and are appreciated for their rich colors while maintaining their translucency and display interference colors, such as pink and green.

Tasaki 

If Mikimoto laid the foundations of pearl culture, Tasaki, founded in 1954,  when the cultured pearl took off in Europe. The Maison has been able to reinterpret this heritage with a more daring approach, and it is also one of the few to have its own pearl farms in Japan, more precisely near Nagasaki, thus guaranteeing total control over the quality of its pearls. 

For his part, Tasaki also cultivates Akoya pearls, from the South Seas, It is distinguished by the use of Baroque pearls, named after the slang "baroque" irregularly shaped; freshwater pearls which have a relatively thick layer of mother-of-pearl and come in several shapes (oval, drop, button or round), their price is relatively affordable and they can be used in various pieces of jewelry. Finally, Tasaki is known today for its Mabé pearls, developed from the 1970s onwards, of half-spherical shapes that sport a piercing luster and rainbow-like colours.

From the 2000s, under the impetus of creators such as Thakoon Panichgul, the brand introduces avant-garde designs with two European designers: Marie-Hélène de Taillac who infuses her joyful and delicate spirit, and Mélanie Feorgacopoulos since 2012. These jewels mix pearls and graphic elements, like her famous “Balance” rings, where the pearls seem to float in balance on a gold structure, like Messika with his “Disrupting DiamondsThis modern and architectural approach has allowed Tasaki to conquer a younger clientele, unlike Mikimoto, which positions itself more as a guarantor of the tradition and classicism of jewelry, while preserving its artisanal heritage.

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