L'exposition : Paris, Capitale de la Perle à l'École des Arts Joailliers

March 20, 2025

The exhibition: Paris, Capital of Pearls at the School of Jewelry Arts

The exhibition "Paris, Capital of Pearls", organized by The School of Jewelry Arts will be open to the general public from November 21, 2024 to June 1, 2025 at the Hôtel de Mercy-Argenteau in the 9th arrondissement of Paris.

Founded in 2012 with the support of the maison Van Cleef & Arpels, the School offers the public the opportunity to learn to the history of jewelry, know-how and stones through courses, conferences as well as regular and temporary exhibitions on various themes in the sector.

By supporting research and facilitating the rediscovery of this incredible Parisian pearl epic, the School of Jewelry Arts reaffirms its commitment to promoting jewelry culture and deepening its knowledge in this field.

The exhibition "Paris, Capital of Pearls" presents around a hundred pieces, from around twenty of the most prestigious lenders, such as the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the Petit Palais, the heritage collections of the Maisons Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier And Fred, or the exceptional private Albion Art collection. It evokes a retrospective on the origin and history of the pearl through the eras it has marked, notably the Belle Époque and Art Nouveau, from the ancient century to the present day. It remains a source of inspiration for the greatest jewelers.

Evolution of the pearl

During the Renaissance, the pearls become a status symbol in European royal courts. Opulent necklaces and pearl-embellished jewelry were worn by figures like Elizabeth I of England Or Marie de MediciAt that time, Venice and Antwerp were hubs of the fine pearl trade in Europe.

The pearl trade reached Paris via the sea routes linking Europe to the Orient. It was at the heart of intense trade between the Arabian-Persian Gulf and the seas of Asia, as far as France between the end of the 19th century and the middle of the 20th century, they are introduced by specialist traders who supply large houses such as Boucheron, Cartier or even ChaumetIt was from the 19th century onwards that Paris established itself as an essential centre for the pearl trade, hence its description as “Pearl Capital”.

The arrival of the cultured pearls occurs at the beginning of the 20th century, a period known as the “perlomania”, thanks to the technical innovations discovered by Japan, notably by the Maison MikimotoThese pearls, more accessible, democratize their use in jewelry, while allowing Parisian designers to diversify their creations, greatly competing with fine pearls.

Today, pearl fishing is prohibited for environmental reasons. To find fine pearls in jewelry, which remains a dynamic market reserved for exceptional pieces, it is only through reused old jewelry or the remnants of a few stocks taken from merchants in the Gulf.

Exceptional pieces

Interview by Déborah Bertol.

Leonard Pouy, Doctor of Art History and Head of Content and Transmission at the School of Jewelry Arts : “we have chosen the most beautiful pieces in the world”.

Olivier Segura, gemologist and director of the Asia-Pacific School of Jewelry Arts : “Thanks to our network, we knew where the most beautiful pieces were hidden. It was then a matter of contacting the owners and negotiating with them to obtain a loan for the duration of the exhibition. [...] The owners of these jewels are in love with the pieces they own, they want to share them, to show them and to tell this great story."

Discover the key pieces from this iconic collection: