The legend Gérald Genta through his most iconic watches

Gérald Genta, often nicknamed the "Picasso of watchmaking", East one of the most influential designers in the history of modern watch designIn this article, discover everything there is to know about him, from his professional career to the iconic models he designed!

Gérald Genta: A visionary master of watchmaking

Born in Geneva in 1931 into a family of Italian origin, Gérald Genta obtained a federal diploma in goldsmithing and jewelry at the age of 20. Trained in drawing and designing precious objects, He approaches the watch as a miniature work of art, merging sculpture, architecture and functionality.

Dubbed by Christie's the "Fabergé watches", Genta symbolizes the meeting of art and engineering. He designed for the biggest manufacturers, notably Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Omega, IWC, Universal Geneva, Cartier And Bulgari, before founding his own maison in 1969 and to launch exceptional creations such as the Gefica Safari, the first bronze watch.

Youth and artistic training

During his apprenticeship, Genta developed a taste for bold volumes and contrasting materials. Fascinated by architecture, applied arts and nature, he adopted a multidisciplinary approach very early on which would mark all his designs.His line is precise, instinctive and flexible, often inspired by organic and geometric shapes.

An independent career, synonymous with creative freedom

Genta's career is distinguished by a rare independence: instead of being permanently attached to a production, he prefers to collaborate on an ad hoc basis, which allows him to maintain total freedom of expression. This independence is reflected in protean creativity and an extraordinary mastery of watchmaking codes.

Iconic watches that have made history

1959 - Omega Constellation: the beginning of a promising career

First major creation branded Genta, there Constellation embodies the fusion between chronometric precision and aesthetic refinement. Its dial "Pie Pan" and its finely engraved bezel made it an iconic watch of the post-war period.

1972 - Audemars Piguet Royal Oak: the luxury revolution in steel

Absolute masterpiece of industrial design, there Royal Oak East the first luxury stainless steel watchInspired by ship portholes, it breaks conventions with its octagonal case, exposed screws and integrated bracelet. Despite a mixed reception at its launch, it quickly became a style icon "sport chic" and opens a new era for watchmaking.

1976 - Patek Philippe Nautilus: timeless sporty elegance

Drawn on a corner of a napkin, the Nautilus was born from a meeting between Genta and Philippe Stern in Basel. Also inspired by a Hublot, its bezel with rounded corners symbolizes elegance and fluidity. This model redefined the high-end sports watch, which has now become one of the absolute grails of collectors.

1975 - IWC Ingenieur: between robustness and refined design

The Engineer has a more technical style, like its anti-magnetic movement and minimalist design. Its screwed-down bezel and perfect integration of the case and bracelet reinforce its character as a functional tool serving precision.

1985 - The Pasha of Cartier : unique signature and stylistic audacity

Designed to appeal to a daring clientele, the Pasha mixes exuberance and eleganceIts round case, removable protective grille and chained crown make it a model as original as it is recognizable among all.

Bulgari Bulgari (1977): modernity and minimalism

At the request of the maison Roman, Genta imagines a radical visual concept: a bezel engraved with the double “BVLGARI” logo. The watch Bulgari Bulgari seduced by its symmetrical architecture, inspired by ancient Roman pieces and the "tubogas", merging cultural heritage and modernity, and making the Maison a new major player in watchmaking.

Gérald Genta's Lasting Influence on Modern Watchmaking

Design innovation: cases, integrated bracelets and geometric shapes

Genta introduced features that have become essential: the continuity between a case and its bracelet, the highlighting of the visible screws and the assumed geometry in watchmaking. His watches transformed the wristwatch into a miniaturized architectural object.

The impact on major watchmaking houses

Genta's designs have redefined the strategy of the biggest brands. After the success of the Royal Oak, Patek Philippe, IWC, Cartier And Bulgari have in turn embraced the "sport-chic" in steel, encouraging the industry to better consider materials and form as an aesthetic signature, also proof of robustness and accessibility.

Genta's place in contemporary watchmaking culture

In 2025, more than a decade after his death, his influence remains omnipresent. Reissues of his historic models, such as the Royal Oak 50th Anniversary or the new Gérald Genta Minute Repeater line by LVMH, are testament to the vitality of his legacy. His humanist vision of design, combining technical rigor and artistic emotion, continues to inspire contemporary creators and still fascinates collectors and enthusiasts today.

And you, who is your favorite Genta model?

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