Ceramics: a revolution in jewelry and watch design

Ceramic is a material traditionally associated with pottery and tableware, but in recent years has found a place in the world of jewelry and watchmaking. Thanks to its aesthetic and technical qualities, ceramic has become a material of choice that has quickly been integrated into the collections of major brands such as Chanel, Chaumet Cartier, Boucheron...

History of ceramics

The origin of the word ceramic comes from the Greek "keramos", meaning "clay". The art of ceramics, as it is most commonly known, is a "fire art", artisanal, used since prehistoric times, and more precisely in the Neolithic period, since it involves transforming a common material (such as clay, for example) by the action of heat. It is also one of the most abundant materials that Man has ever created.

The appearance of ceramic jewelry dates back to the time of Antiquity. Ancient civilizations such as the Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans used ceramics to create ornaments. For example, the Greeks frequently used clay beads, which they decorated with geometric designs. Among the Romans, jewelry served as both a fashion accessory and a marker of social status.

Today, technology has evolved and a variety of materials can be heated to extreme temperatures, then molded and reworked to create so-called "ceramics."techniques", with characteristics required for specific applications in mechanics, depending on their conductivity, their magnetism and other properties… which are now of interest to major jewelry and watchmaking companies.

Characteristics of ceramics

The primary characteristic of ceramics, and the one for which it is chosen, is its versatility in terms of colors as well as its polished, smooth and shiny finish. Ceramics are also very popular for its lightness, providing additional comfort and an ideal choice for massive jewelry.

In addition, ceramics are extremely scratch resistant, making it an ideal material for watches and jewelry that are often subject to daily wear and tear. Note that even though it is scratch and wear resistant, ceramic is still a fragile material in terms of shocks. If it falls or suffers a violent impact, it may break or crack, which requires some caution.

Compositions and uses of ceramics in jewelry and watchmaking

The steps: 

1) Development of the material : The manufacture of ceramics used in watchmaking and jewelry begins with the selection of the raw material, mainlyalumina (aluminum oxide), extracted from the bauxite. This material is then mixed with liquids and sometimes additives such as zirconium to improve its properties. 

2) Shaping (injection) : Once the mixture is homogeneous, it is molded into the desired shape (watch case, bracelet, etc.). 

3) Sintering : The pieces are then dried and heated to very high temperatures (between 1400°C and 1600°C) to be sintered, which gives them their density, strength and durability. This process makes the ceramic extremely resistant to scratches and wear, while preserving its shine.

4) Machining : After sintering, the ceramic parts are machined to obtain precise dimensions and detailed shapes. This process requires specific tools, often equipped with diamonds, due to the exceptional hardness of the ceramic. Machining ensures a perfect fit with the other components of the watch or jewelry.

5) Polishing : Finally, the ceramic pieces undergo careful polishing to obtain a smooth and shiny finish. Depending on the desired effect, the polishing can be satin, matte or mirror. The pieces can also be tinted or colored using metallic oxides to offer specific and personalized shades.

6) Termination: Once polished, the ceramic pieces are ready to be incorporated into the final creations. In watchmaking, this can include their assembly into watches, such as cases, bezels, or bracelets. In jewelry, ceramic is used for ornaments, rings, or other decorative elements. 

Iconic ceramic collections

Chanel : the precursor of ceramics

There Maison Chanel, always at the forefront of innovation, has established itself with the use of ceramics in the 2000s, first with its collection of J12 watches, combining ceramic and steel, which has met with immense success. Then, on the jewelry side, ceramic is associated with precious materials such as gold, platinum and diamonds. They can be found in two jewelry collections dating from 2005: Ultra where it is cut like links, geometric shapes that fit together, as well as the collection Camélia who also uses ceramics to sculpt flowers, with organic volumes. 

Liens of Chaumet 

Chaumet also uses ceramics throughout its collection Liens, paying tribute to the bonds that unite individuals, while symbolizing precious moments and lasting relationships. Black or white ceramic, chosen for its shine and smooth texture, is used as the body of the ring, in which a line of white gold set with diamonds is encrusted, creating a perfect harmony between the purity of the ceramic and the brilliance of the precious stones. 

Trinity of Cartier

The collection Trinity of Cartier, launched in 1924, was modernized in 2000 with the addition of ceramic on one of the rings, making it possible to offer a monochromatic version, where black ceramic is combined with white gold (sometimes paved with diamonds) to bring a contemporary touch to the classic design. 

Graphic of Mellerio

Then, an old collection of Mellerio named Graphic of Mellerio, marries ceramic and metal in sculptural creations, combining geometric shapes and openwork volumes. This material is enhanced by touches of diamonds and precious stones, creating graphic and elegant compositions that celebrate the beauty of simplicity and sophistication.

Capri of Pomellato

The collection Capri of Pomellato, launched in 2017, incorporates ceramics into its jewelry to capture the island and Mediterranean spirit of the island of Capri. Ceramic is also combined with colored stones such as tourmalines and sapphires.

B.Zero 1 of Bulgari

The collection B.Zero 1 of Bulgari, launched in 2000, is another of the most striking examples of the use of ceramics in jewelry. This iconic line fuses ceramic with steel and gold to create rings with bold and modern shapes, inspired by Roman architecture. 

Divine Star of Mauboussin 

Mauboussin also knew how to exploit the properties of ceramics in its collection Divine Star. Through this line, ceramics take the form of jewelry that is both subtle and luminous, where each piece seems to capture the light of a star. 

Gucci Icons

Gucci introduced the collection Icon in 2014, where ceramics blend with precious materials to celebrate elegance and modernity. The watches in this collection, with their black or white ceramic cases, are embellished with gold or stainless steel details. Ceramic, chosen for its scratch resistance and shiny appearance, perfectly embodies the contemporary spirit of Gucci while remaining faithful to the heritage of the Maison.

On the same topic, you might also like to read
The art of lacquer in jewelry
How to recognize a cameo good quality?