Cartier, the jeweler of kings

PRODUCED BY KYRA BRENZINGER, Editor-in-Chief

This prestigious title was given by King Edward VII to thesecond-hand of his coronation in 1902. He ordered 27 tiaras from the house Cartier of London and proclaims Cartier as being the “jeweler of kings and the king of jewelers”. A title and a sumptuous order which will bring luck to the French jeweler…

From European courts to Asia: from tiaras to Tutti Frutti

Founded in 1847 by Louis François Cartier, the house was able to quickly develop thanks to a family line of true entrepreneurs. The first customers were from the court of Napoleon III, but also the great Tsar Nicholas II or Alphonse III of Spain ordered prestigious pieces and tiaras for their wives. Marie of Romania ordered a necklace adorned with a 478-carat sapphire and several tiaras. In 1911, Jacques Cartier, grandson of the founder, sets off on an adventure in India to meet the maharajahs and their sumptuous palaces. The Maharaja of Nawanagar entrusted him with his greatest project of creating a ceremonial necklace for his access to the throne, adorned with a 136.25 carat diamond and multiple colored diamonds (pink, blue, green). The success was such that many other maharajas of Patiala and Kapurthula entrusted their stones and in particular the stones engraved in emerald, sapphire and ruby in the shape of foliage and fruit. At an exhibition in 1913 in New York, Cartier highlights this clever mix of colored precious stones mixed with diamonds and Indian art was born, renamed in the 70s, as the “Tutti Frutti” style.

L'Art Deco : the master of the outline

This artistic movement was born in Paris in 1925, during the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts. Another grandson of the founder, Louis Cartier is part of the Pavilion of Elegance as vice-president of the Parure group. The House Cartier becomes a reference in style Art Deco, playing purity with the contrast of diamond and onyx. Certain materials add an exotic touch, such as coral or green jade. It was also at this time that Cartier (with watchmaker Maurice Couet) developed his incredible mysterious clocks revealing hands appearing to float in a rock crystal dial with a mechanism hidden in the base. Another great invention from the beginning of the last century: the watch Tank, inspired by assault tanks. In the 1940s, the house Cartier also gives rise to numerous jewels taking the shape of tank caterpillars as links for bracelets or necklaces, now so sought after.

From fine pearls to cultured pearls

The third grandson of the founder, Pierre Cartier developed the brand in the United States and achieved a masterstroke in New York. In 1916, he proposed to Morton Plant, an American businessman and owner of a mansion on 5th avenue, to exchange a necklace of fine pearls for this building. Morton Plant, who cannot resist the desires of his wife, Maisie Plant, sells his mansion in exchange for this magnificent necklace of 128 fine pearls estimated at 1 million dollars. At this time, cultured pearls from Japan, developed by Kokichi Mikomoto, gradually arrived on the Western market. These cultured pearls are gradually replacing fine pearls and are developing in different territories such as Tahiti, Australia or the Philippines, offering a wide variety of colors (black, white, pink, green, white, gold) blending wonderfully with natural stones. exception.

The panther: for leading women

Even if the silhouette of the panther had already appeared in 1914 on a wristwatch, it was above all the new creative director, Jeanne Toussaint appointed in 1933, who created the house's favorite animal. In 1949, she designed a panther brooch for the Duchess of Windsor surmounting a star sapphire cabochon weighing more than 152 carats. A real fashion phenomenon is launched and the most influential women on the planet like Daisy Fellowes, the wife of the Aga Khan or Maria Felix offer themselves new versions. The famous panther now adorns numerous versions of rings, bracelets and necklaces. Reinvented in different styles, figurative or stylized, the panther Cartier is simply a must!

Mythical diamonds in engagement rings 

The first diamonds from the famous Indian mine of Golconda adorned the necks of maharajas. But the star Elizabeth Taylor has created a truly legendary couple with Richard Burton who offers her many exceptional jewels such as this pear-shaped diamond of 69.42 carats, mounted on a necklace by the house Cartier in 1969. Another great American star: Grace Kelly received from Prince Rainier for his engagement a ring adorned with a 10.48 carat diamond. No longer wishing to take this ring off, she will wear it in her last film High Society before leaving the cinema for her career as Princess of Monaco. Engagement rings Cartier have become a must for young brides. The solitary 1895 is the iconic model par excellence with its solitaire mounted on 4 claws and on platinum. The diamond collection also includes many more recent models such as the Amulette collection or the sumptuous Draperie necklace, adorned with bezel-set diamonds mounted on 18 rows of gold balls.

A story of feelings: Trinity

Created in 1924 by Louis Cartier, the famous 3 rings Trinity combine 3 golds: yellow, pink and gray symbolizing feelings of friendship, love and loyalty. Jean Cocteau made this creation emblematic by wearing it and offering it to his companion, the writer Raymond Radiguet. Many personalities adopt this symbol of universal love such as Gary Cooper, Grace Kelly or the Duke of Windsor. Today, this emblematic model offers numerous versions: tricolor or monocolor, with or without diamonds and is available in sets (necklaces, bracelets, earrings).

The creations iconic today

THE bracelet Love particularly refined and modern, it is nevertheless a creation which dates back to 1969. The designer Aldo Cipullo imagined this bracelet in the workshop of Cartier At New York. The bracelet is engraved with screw patterns and it closes with a real gold screw, accompanied by a mini screwdriver. These “modern love handcuffs” are a symbolic link between two beings. A true creative genius, Aldo Cipullo also imagined in 1971, the Clou bracelet from the Nail collection which also includes rings, earrings and necklaces. Today, renamed Juste un clou, the design is perfectly stylized wrapping the wrist and giving a glam-rock aspect to this collection. These two creations, Love And Juste un Clou are perfectly unisex and symbolize love in a universal way.

A precious tribute to nature

After its numerous animal interpretations, the house Cartier is also interested in the plant kingdom. The orchid, which came from Asia in the 16th century, fascinates Cartier who already performed it in the 1930s in brooch form. But it was in 2005 that the jeweler dedicated its Orchid Caresse High Jewelry collection to this mysterious flower. Its shimmering colors are reinterpreted with amethysts and rubies that we see appearing through diamond lace creating flower cascading earrings. In 2016, the house Cartier goes against the tide of trends with its Cactus line which does not lack spice. These ephemeral flowers are adorned with luminous chrysoprases, emeralds and carnelians and transform into gold ball rings protecting the fingers. Bracelets or necklaces bloom small white diamond flowers appearing like morning dew. A vibrant tribute to nature and symbolizing the preciousness of life!