Authenticating a ring Nudo of Pomellato : the expert guide against counterfeiting

In summary: Authenticating a ring Nudo of Pomellato It relies on the precision of its asymmetrical faceted cabochon, the invisibility of its patented setting in the mount, and the presence of hallmarks of Milanese origin (notably the goldsmith's hallmark). <1508 MI>A counterfeit can usually be identified by traces of glue under the stone, a gold weight that is too light, or crude internal engravings. 58 Facettes, each ring Nudo entrusted to our Parisian center of expertise, it is checked under a microscope and spectrometer before being offered for sale.

Created in 2001 by the Maison Milanese Pomellato, the ring Nudo It completely revolutionized the jewelry industry. Offering a vibrant colored stone (topaz, amethyst, prasiolite, quartz, etc.) exposed, without any visible prongs to hold it in place, was a bold gamble. Today, it's a global success.

But this popularity also makes it one of the most copied pieces. Between costume jewelry that openly draws inspiration from it and fake jewelry, it's not always easy to know what's real.

If you wish to buy a ring Nudo second-hand or to check a piece you own, here are the 6 very concrete points that our gemologists check daily at 15 rue Vignon in Paris.

1. The size of the stone and its 57 facets

This is the visual signature of Pomellato. The stone in a ring Nudo It is not a simple smooth cabochon: it is a patented cut featuring 57 slightly asymmetrical facets.

Observe the top of the gem: the light reflects off it very softly. The upper surface has a subtle, natural curve. On a copy (often made of glass or resin), the facets are sometimes too geometric and rigid, or conversely, so poorly cut that the edges lack precision.

2. Invisible crimping and the complete absence of glue

In Italian, "Nudo" means "naked". The magic of this ring comes from the impression that the stone is literally floating above the ring.

In reality, the gem is held in place by a mechanical setting system concealed inside the small gold basket that encircles the base of the stone. Under magnification, you should not observe no trace of glue nor any gap between the metal and the stone. If you see traces of resin or clear glue under the basket, it's a sure sign: the ring is fake.

3. The combination of rose gold and white gold

It's a detail that many people forget, but the ring Nudo classic often combines (this is not always the case) two shades of 18-carat gold (750 thousandths):

• The ring is crafted from 18-carat rose gold, warm and very soft to the touch.
• The kitten (the basket that holds the stone) is made of 18-carat white gold, in order to highlight the natural color of the gem without tinting it yellow.

On low-quality counterfeits, the entire ring is molded from a single piece of gold-plated or gold-plated metal, without any distinction between the setting and the band. However, this criterion alone is not enough to determine whether a ring is authentic or not. Some genuine models are made in only one color of gold.

4. The Italian hallmarks and the workshop's city mark

Each creation Pomellato It bears the mark of its original workshop. Looking inside the ring with a 10x magnifying glass, you should find:

1. The Italian goldsmith's hallmark with the workshop number Pomellato : For example <1508 MI> (MI for Milano).
2. The metal's assay mark: 750 (which corresponds to 18-carat gold).
3. If the jewelry was sold or inspected in France, the state hallmark (the Eagle's head) struck on the edge of the ring.

5. The finesse of the signature "Pomellato"

The engraving of the brand name inside or outside the ring is fine, elegant, and perfectly legible. The lettering is crisp and even.

On a fake ring Nudo, The inscription is often crudely typed, with letters that are too thick and bleed, or conversely, engraved so superficially with a laser that it disappears with the slightest cleaning.

6. The weight of gold and the feel in the hand

Even in its smallest sizes, a ring Nudo It has a real presence. The 18-carat gold ring is solid and solid, not hollowed out inside.

Depending on the size of the finger and the shape of the stone, a Nudo Classic models typically weigh between 7 and 11 grams. A copy made of brass or hollow metal will often weigh half as much, giving an immediate impression of lightness when held in hand.

Summary of checkpoints: True vs. False Pomellato Nudo

Buy a ring Pomellato Nudo in complete serenity

Buy a ring Nudo Selling between individuals without a physical examination carries risks, as boxes and paper certificates are also sometimes imitated.

To offer you absolute security, 58 Facettes Each piece of jewelry is inspected by its independent gemological center. If you wish buy a ring Pomellato Nudo second-handPlease note that all items presented on our site are examined under a microscope before being delivered with our certificate of expertise.

Your most frequently asked questions

What are the different sizes of stones for a ring? Nudo ?

The ring Nudo comes in several formats: the version Little (stone approximately 8.5 mm), the version Classic (10.5 mm), the version Maxi (12.5 mm) as well as versions adorned with diamond pavé on the ring.

Can a ring size be adjusted? Nudo ?

Yes, but resizing must be done by a workshop experienced in fine jewelry. Due to the tension of the gold basket that holds the stone and the engraved signature inside, this operation requires particular care to preserve the piece.

How to clean your ring Nudo without damaging the stone?

The gemstones that adorn the ring Nudo Topaz, amethyst, and prasiolite gemstones are easily cleaned with lukewarm water, mild soap, and a very soft brush. Avoid harsh chemicals or ultrasonic cleaners, which can dull the gem's brilliance.

How to get a ring appraised Nudo What if we no longer have the certificate of origin?

You can have your ring appraised for free on our website using our tool. Pricer 58 Facettes or bring it to us at 15 rue Vignon in Paris (8th arrondissement). Our experts will check the gold, the hallmarks and the stone to tell you its true market value.