Everything you need to know about the signet ring

Features of the signet ring

The signet rings are wide rings with plates, generally made of gold, platinum Or silver. They can have the particularity of being engraved or sculpted directly on the metal or on a suitable ornamental stone such as agate, lapis lazuli, jasper, carnelian, onyx... Signet rings can also be set with a large carat center stone or a cameo, surrounded or not by diamonds.

Often synonymous with character and heritage, this type of ring is a great classic in the world of men's jewelry, but is also becoming a jewel increasingly worn by women. Historically, its wearing responds to codes that vary according to the country, gender and era, which we will see in more detail in this article.

History & Origins of the signet ring 

The first traces of the signet ring date back several thousand years, when examples were found in the tombs of the pharaohs of ancient Egypt. 

Later, during the Middle Ages, many knights wore this type of ring, which eventually gave it its name. At the time, thethe signet rings served as seals to sign official documents with their own imprint, while attesting to the authority of the person who bore them.

Symbolic evolution of the signet ring

In the past, the signet ring was seen as a symbol of identity, culture and society; representing a title, an obligation or a noble lineage, which was materialized by a coat of arms, a crest, initials or symbols specific to the family or individual who owned it, in which each element had a particular meaning.

Wearing this ring was synonymous with a commitment or belonging to a community such as the knights of an order, renowned university clubs or even an aristocratic family. Often passed down from generation to generation, signet rings become a true family heirloom that lasts over time.

Traditionally worn on the ring finger or little finger, the signet ring is now becoming more and more of a fashion accessory with a vintage and traditional look. Nowadays, signet rings feature more modern and minimalist designs, sometimes decorated with precious or fine stones, more adapted to current trends and which appeal to new generations.

How to wear a signet ring?

On which finger should you wear your signet ring?

• Ring finger of the left hand : Traditionally, in France, the signet ring is worn on the ring finger of the left hand by older (men), on the same finger as their wedding ring.
• Little finger of the right hand : Still in France, women, cadets and youngest sons wear their signet ring on the right little finger. In England, the signet ring is also worn on this finger by aristocrats and members of the nobility.
• Little finger of the left hand : A signet ring worn on this finger signifies that it is a member of a royal family or nobility. 
• The index: In the past, a signet ring worn on this finger was interpreted as a sign of power, because it was often used to designate things. This custom, now disappeared, has given way to an original way of assuming one's signet ring.
• The thumb and middle finger : Although these fingers are not considered "ring fingers", it can be original to place a signet ring on them.

In which direction should the shield of the signet ring be oriented?

• “In hand kiss” : the coat of arms is oriented outwards, with the tip of the crest pointing towards your nails, meaning you are single.
• “In a fight” or “in battle” : the coat of arms is oriented towards oneself, with the tip of the coat of arms towards the hand and symbolically towards the heart, which indicates that you are married.

Today, you are free to wear your signet ring as you wish! Generally, it is preferable to point the coat of arms towards others because this gives the opportunity to observe the decorations of the signet ring.