What is a pocket watch?

The pocket watch, also called pocket watch, is an object steeped in history and charm. Long a symbol of masculine elegance, it still appeals to lovers of classic watchmaking and vintage pieces today. Discover everything you need to know about the pocket watch in this article.

Definition and origin of the pocket watch

The pocket watch is aa watch designed to be carried in a small pocket, called "gusset", usually located in a vest, jacket or trousers. Appeared in the 16th century, For several centuries, it was the main way of telling the time before the advent of the wristwatch.

Its name therefore comes from this usage: "gusset" refers to the pocket specially dedicated to this type of watch. The pocket watch is often attached to a chain or ribbon, called a "chainette", which allows it to be attached to the clothing and prevents it from falling.

The technical and aesthetic characteristics of the pocket watch

The case and the cover

The pocket watch is distinguished by its round case, often decorated, whether by metalwork (engraving, sculpture, chiseling, guilloché, repiercing, etc.) or ornamentation with other materials such as enamel, or even set with stones. It may or may not be equipped with a protective cover, which protects the dial from shocks and dust.

There are several types:

• Soap (Full Hunter) : case with a full cover to open to read the time.
• Half-bar of soap (Half Hunter) : cover with an opening or glass allowing you to see the time without opening it.
• Double soap (Double Hunter) : cover at the front and back, the latter often transparent to admire the movement.

The movement

Most pocket watches operate with a mechanical movement, often manually wound. The user must then turn the winding crown to store the energy necessary for operation. Some more recent or restored watches may incorporate a automatic movement. The movement can be seen through a transparent caseback, highlighting the complexity and beauty of the cogs, often carefully decorated.

The pocket watch, a symbol of elegance and history

An essential accessory from the past

From the 16th century until the early 20th century, the pocket watch was an essential accessory for elegant men. It symbolized refinement, precision, and social status. During the Belle Époque, some women also adopted it as a fashion jewel.

The decline in favor of the wristwatch

The First World War marked a turning point: the wristwatch, more practical for soldiers, gradually replaced the pocket watch in everyday life. The very first wristwatch was, in fact, initiated by the Maison Cartier and more precisely Louis Cartier, who had this idea at the request of his aviator friend Alberto Santos-Dumont, complaining of not being able to read the time while piloting, it was then that the watch Santos was born. Since then, wearing wristwatches has become part of society's mores, to the detriment of pocket watches. Despite this, the latter retains a particular appeal, particularly among collectors and vintage watch enthusiasts.

Collection and value of pocket watches

Antique or prestigious pocket watches have great value, both historically and financially. Pieces made of precious metals (gold, silver), limited editions, or those branded by major watchmaking houses are particularly sought after, regardless of their working condition. Indeed, mEven watches requiring restoration can be of interest to collectors thanks to their unique mechanism and their potential for restoration by specialist watchmakers.

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