What means "paved" or "setting"?

The term "paved" or "setting" comes from the French word “pavé” (cobblestone), which refers to a set of stones that cover a ground. In jewelry and watchmaking, it is a setting technique that consists of setting multiple small precious stones on the surface of a jewel, very close to each other, which can completely or partially cover a jewel. Far from being a simple decorative detail, paving is above all a symbol of artisanal mastery and know-how.

The role of setting: Sublimate without weighing down

The setting gives the impression that the room is entirely paved with stones, hence the intense shine effect. continuous, which thus allows to enhance a room by adding sparkle without overloading it. It can be used as well on flat surfaces than on curved or volume surfaces.

One of the great strengths of pavé setting lies in its ability to dress a piece of jewelry without adding visual weight to it. The stones are so fine and so finely arranged that they seem to naturally fit the surface of the metal, creating a perfect harmony between the brilliance of the gems and the shape of the jewel.
In fine jewelry, setting is often used to enhance complex creations through color gradients and patterns figuratively representing animals, humans or natural elements, as is often done by the houses Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels Or Boucheron.

The different setting techniques

• Claw setting : Small metal prongs are created between each stone to hold them in place. This type of setting is used for stones set on thin bands of metal, such as the surround of the central stone or the accompaniment on the ring body.
• Grain setting : Here, the stones are set using tiny metal beads called "grains" that are shaped around the stones to hold them in place. This type of setting is used for larger surfaces because it offers a more fluid rendering; the metal grains are very discreet and integrated into the structure of the jewel.
• Invisible setting : Much less widespread because it is exclusive to the home Van Cleef & Arpels, the invisible setting also called "Mysterious Setting", it consists of the stones being set without the metal being visible, which gives the illusion of a continuous surface of precious stones. 

Stones and metals preferred for setting

Although setting is most often done with diamonds, it can also be done with other gemstones such as sapphires, the ruby, the emeralds or even fine stones like the amethysts or the topazes for example. Diamonds, however, remain the preferred stone, as their pure brilliance and incomparable hardness make them an ideal choice for this type of setting.

As for metals, the white gold and the platinum are frequently used for pavé jewelry, as these white metals highlight the brightness of the stones. However, yellow gold and rose gold can also offer beautiful contrasts, giving a vintage look to the pieces.

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Van Cleef & Arpels, technical expertise at the service of high jewelry