What is Haute Horlogerie?

Like the High Jewelry, the High Watchmaking stands out as the quintessence of an art where technical excellence, ancestral know-how and heritage emotion meet. The term evokes both refinement, the complexity of mechanisms and the transmission of a rare craftsmanship that transcends the measurement of time.

The origin of Haute Horlogerie

The history of Haute Horlogerie begins well before the crystallization of the term itself, which truly appeared in the professional vocabulary at the end of the 1970s to mark a salutary differentiation from industrial quartz production.

From the very beginning, Haute Horlogerie has been distinguished by exceptional work, where the master watchmaker's gesture shapes each component according to traditions dating back to the Renaissance. Switzerland, France and England claim this heritage, but It is in Geneva and the Vallée de Joux that the largest workshops and factories are still concentrated today. 

Official definition of Haute Horlogerie 

The definition of Haute Horlogerie revolves around the idea of absolute excellence. It was officially defined by the Foundation of Haute Horlogerie (FHH), a non-profit organization based in Geneva, founded in 2005 by Audemars Piguet and Girard-Perregaux, as well as by the Richemont group, with the aim of perpetuating and promoting the watchmaking tradition of excellence.

In order to fulfill this mission, it publishes reference works and offers specialized training intended for both professionals and enthusiasts. Noting to what extent the notion of "Fine Watchmaking" was increasingly diverted for marketing purposes, the FHH quickly felt the need to establish an official definition of this term, allowing to preserve its true meaning and to avoid any abusive use: "Haute Horlogerie is watchmaking excellence, the symbiosis of the art of watchmaking and applied arts." 

The evaluation criteria of the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie

This official definition is governed by 28 criteria, themselves grouped into 7 areas of expertise as follows:

Research, Development and Technical Know-How

In the field of fine watchmaking, research and development bear witness to the innovation capacity of a maison. Brands are judged on the diversity of their range, internal mastery of manufacturing as well as their ability to design manufactured movements, that is to say, entirely developed and produced in-house.

It also manifests itself by the complexity of the mechanisms and the creativity of the complications. Indeed, since the 18th century, artisans have been competing in ingenuity to create complications – tourbillon, perpetual calendar, minute repeater, date, chime, power reserve, jumping hour – which make each watch a technical challenge. 

But this expertise is not only translated in terms of technique, but also aesthetics, by studying the the care taken in decorating the components: chamfering, polishing, beading and other traditional finishes.

Technical innovations, patent registration and obtaining certifications such as COSC or the Geneva Seal also attest to the will of the maison to achieve objective and recognized excellence. 

Style and Design

Style and design are at the heart of the artistic recognition of Haute Horlogerie houses. Creative originality is expressed through the design of cases, dials and movements with original and distinctive shapes. Arts and crafts, such as enameling, marquetry, engraving and setting, allow for further enrichment of stylistic expression and perpetuation of the aesthetic audacity specific to the sector. A strong and coherent visual identity is the distinctive mark of houses that inspire and stand out for their creativity.

History and DNA of the Maison

History and DNA constitute the basis of legitimacy in Haute Horlogerie. Houses are evaluated according to their seniority, the continuity of their activity and the level of fidelity to the spirit of the founder. This respect for tradition is demonstrated by the careful conservation of archives and the promotion of historical heritage passed on to watchmakers and collaborators, thus ensuring sustainability and consistency across generations.

Distribution and After-Sales Service

Distribution and after-sales service quality are essential to ensure a customer experience that meets industry expectations. maison Haute Horlogerie stands out through the international influence of its network and its ability to offer impeccable after-sales service, including the restoration of old parts and technical monitoring over time. The availability of specialists and the speed of interventions are all indications of the seriousness of the maison.

Collectors and Community

If Haute Horlogerie fascinates, it is also because the extreme rarity of his creations. THE pieces are produced in limited series, sometimes individually, and each copy receives almost obsessive attention throughout its development, giving rise to hundreds of hours of work. This rarity thus fuels a forte heritage and emotional dimension : the watch then becomes a family heirloom, passed down from generation to generation, like a silent witness to individual and collective stories, thus combining sentimental value and investment value. 

The interest generated within the collector community is an indicator of the vitality of the brand. Reputable houses animate a circle of enthusiasts, stimulated byby the rarity of the models and by the active presence of the brand on the secondary market, especially during auctions.

Branding and Communication

Branding and communication play a key role in a company's ability to maison to shine internationally. Notoriety is based on the story told around the creations, on the consistency of the messages and on the ethical commitments carried by the brand, whether in terms of sustainable development or social responsibility. Generating desire around the collections and uniting enthusiasts are an integral part of this criterion of excellence.

Training and Transmission

Continuing training and the transmission of know-how are essential to ensure lasting excellence in Fine Watchmaking. The technical training offered to watchmakers, but also to sales teams and customers, guarantees maintaining cutting-edge expertise and preserving traditional methods and know-how, protected and honored by the manufacturers who themselves train the future master watchmakers. This concern to transmit the art of watchmaking to new generations is the guarantee of lasting influence for the maison.

In short, Haute Horlogerie is a global, structural and philosophical approach of the measurement of time. Concretely, it imposes complete mastery of manufacturing, from movement to decoration, including the choice of materials and assembly. A true Haute Horlogerie watch comes from an artisanal, even artistic, process where each detail is executed according to standards often inaccessible to industrial production.

Some emblematic houses of Haute Horlogerie

In 2016, the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie established a rigorous evaluation method to determine which houses could join the inner circle of the Haute Horlogerie elite. According to this system, each brand was subject to the grid of 18 criteria mentioned above in this article. Each criterion was subject to a score out of ten, with access to the circle being reserved for houses displaying a minimum average of 6 out of 10. Thus, Among the 86 brands analyzed with this requirement of excellence, only 64 crossed this threshold. The result of this selection was recorded in a "White Paper", which made it possible to publicly distinguish the selected houses by dividing them into four main categories reflecting the diversity of the sector: 

• The first category is that historic houses and recognized as a reference for traditional watchmaking. Among them, Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe And Audemars Piguet form what is commonly called the "Holy Trinity" of watchmaking. Alongside them, houses such as Rolex, Omega, Jaeger-leCoultre, Zenith, Blancpain, Breguet, A. Lange & Söhne, Ulysse Nardin, Girard Perregaux, Jaquet Droz, Greubel Forsey And Bovet are distinguished by their impeccable know-how, perpetuating the most refined know-how and establishing themselves as absolute references among discerning collectors. 
  
  
• Faced with this historical base, the second category is that contemporary brands that are shaking up the sector's codes with MB&F, Richard Mille, From Bethune, HYT Or Parmigiani Flower
• yesterday symbolize this avant-garde Haute Horlogerie, capable of inventing new forms, integrating revolutionary complications and exploring new alloys and materials. Their bold approach, at the crossroads of cutting-edge technology, artistic experimentation and radical design, attracts a clientele curious about singularity and a break with classic conventions.
  
  
• The third category is that luxury brands, investing creatively,
  innovation and a concern for excellence in the art of Haute Horlogerie
  technical and/or valuable. This category includes houses like Hermès Or Louis Vuitton. 
  
  
• Finally, the fourth category is that artisan-creators relying on a
  specific know-how and generally ensuring the production, marketing and after-sales service of their products. Among them are names like Roger W. Smith, Philippe Dufou, FP Journe…It's a closed circle, perhaps a little too closed, which limits entry to new talents. 

Today, the world of Haute Horlogerie offers a panorama of unique richness, in combining heritage and innovation, tradition and pioneering spirit, It appeals to both purists who love tradition and new collectors looking for contemporary exceptional items.

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