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Magazine 58F
Ethical jewelry: a new demand from consumers
The subject of the environment is becoming a concern for many consumers and in different areas, even in jewelry. Let's meet jewelers-creators of 58 Facettes who chose this approach in the initial creation of their concept and to meet the demand of a new clientele.
Mademoiselle AD: recycled gold and a commitment to miners in Tanzania
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Based in Hyères since 2005, Anne Daury has always linked jewelry to ethical values. “For me it’s not a fashion statement, it’s a deep conviction to leave a better world for our children,” she explains. From the creation of her brand, she wanted to use 100% recycled gold, either purchased directly from individuals in her store, or from Ecogold certified suppliers.
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“At the time, there was no real traceability for Fairmined gold from Latin America. So, I preferred to use certified French refiners offering eco-responsible recycled gold. In addition, in my approach, I also favor short circuits rather than bringing gold from the ends of the world with the multiplication of carbon emissions.” Thanks to its ethical approach, the Mademoiselle AD brand was chosen by the Notre Dame Foundation to create a Notre-Dame AD line, contributing to the restoration of the cathedral.
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His brand new intergenerational Chronos collection, created in collaboration with his daughter Eloïse, is made entirely by hand, reminiscent of the hands of his grandfather's pocket watch. In her shop, Anne Daury has a small workshop for tailor-made items, but she also collaborates with different workshops, depending on their specialties which are certified Entreprise du Patrimoine Vivant or Joaillerie de France.
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A graduate of the GIA (Gemmological Institute of America), Anne Daury expertly chooses the origin of her stones. “I am personally involved in GIA as a member of the Alumni Association to develop the education of independent miners in Tanzania and particularly for women's groups.” Moreover, its ForEverGold collection is set with this Tanzanite stone that is only found in this African country with this magical burst of blue-violet reminiscent of the starry skies of our precious land.
Manal Paris: Ethical materials RJC
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Since the launch of her brand in 2018, designer Manal Radouane wanted to choose suppliers in France to meet ethical requirements. “I only work with French traders who guarantee the traceability of the stones and some of whom have existed on the Place for several generations. These traders are often in direct contact with mines for colored stones and for diamonds, they only use stones meeting the Kimberley Process, a certification system for rough diamonds, created in 2000 which aims to avoid conflict diamonds.”
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The creations of Manal Paris feature very beautiful quality stones such as emeralds from Colombia on the Anjar solitaire or pink tourmaline from Mozambique, set on the Ispahane ring. “I have developed a large collection for weddings, including pastel-colored solitaires on rose gold that go very well with skin color.” On the manufacturing side, Manal Radouane uses workshops using recycled gold and labeled RJC (Responsible Jewelery Council), an international organization implementing responsible practices in terms of ethics, environment and working conditions.
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In homage to its Moroccan origins, its creations bear enchanting names like Daera which means "round" in Arabic and which recalls the architecture of inspiration Art Deco. “In Morocco, we have several buildings dating from the 1930s and which combine theArt Deco to more rounded details like flower petals, represented on the Daera necklace. Her mechanical engineering studies in France ultimately led her to the strength of materials, which she ultimately preferred to apply to jewelry. For example, its Café de Paris ring features a round diamond almost levitating, surrounded by baguette diamonds and a particularly technical and sophisticated milgrain setting.
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Still in its logic of traceability, diamonds are certified from 0.30 carats by international laboratories (GIA or HRD) and for colored stones by the French Gemmology Laboratory. With all these guarantees, her jewelry is made to last a lifetime, born from a lovely wedding for example!
Emylienne: upcycling forgotten jewelry
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Thanks to his 15 years of experience within the house Cartier As High Jewelry project manager, Audrey Barbier knows how to immediately recognize exceptionally well-crafted jewelry. “I am very admiring of the know-how of the craftsmen, the precision of their movements and their patience, working long hours behind their workbench.” Since 2017, it has embarked on a particularly original concept: giving a second life to antique jewelry which she poetically calls forgotten jewels. “I sometimes saw some old pieces that were simply melted down to recover the gold or stones… So, I wanted to pay homage to these artisans of the time by transforming antique jewelry to create jewelry that is more in tune with the times.”
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Thus, fine brooches become bracelets, mounted on a simple cord or, hat pin patterns adorn a ring. For the name of her brand Emylienne, she wanted to pay homage to her grandmother who particularly loved jewelry. “She wore them every day and through my approach, I want to give meaning to the transmission value of a piece of jewelry by respecting it while making it evolve through different generations.”
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It can thus give a facelift to a family pearl necklace which transforms into creoles with very modern movable pearls. She likes to change the wear, like this heavy chocker jade necklace which becomes a long, more airy necklace or an old cut diamond, mounted on a tie pick, which becomes a center stone for a ring.
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She favors jewelry from the late 19th century to the early 20th century, which she finds in different auction rooms or even on specialized sites. “Of course I don’t touch jewelry. branded which must remain intact to retain their value! On the other hand, I also work with auctioneers who call on me to offer jewelry transformations to their clients. The objective is to highlight part of the jewel and not to erase it.” A poetic way of conceiving of upcycling in jewelry.
Article by Kyra Brenzinger - Editor-in-Chief.
Photo 1: Anne Daury (Mademoiselle AD) with her daughters
Photo 2: Notre-Dame necklace - Mademoiselle AD
Photo 3: Chronos earrings - Mademoiselle AD
Photo 4: Manal Radouane (Manal Paris)
Photo 5: Solitaire Anjar - Manal Paris
Photo 6: Café de Paris ring - Manal Paris
Photo 7: Audrey Barbier (Emylienne Joaillerie)
Photo 8: Cerise Ring - Emylienne Joaillerie
Photo 9: Petite Marseillaise bracelet - Emylienne Joaillerie