What is the hallmark of gold,silver or platinum ?

Are you wondering the importance of these words “eagle head hallmark” “owl hallmark” in the description of the jewelry? Here are some useful indications for assessing the quality of a piece of jewelry second-hand and its history thanks to the information they convey.

What hallmarks do we see on jewelry second-hand ?

A hallmark is a small mark engraved or struck into the metal by a tool of the same name that makes up an object. Hallmarks are often found in the same places, on the clasps for bracelets, on the outside of the band of a ring, and on the links for necklaces. They are not always very visible to the naked eye but are important because each gold piece, in silver, or in platinum must be marked by two hallmarks, that of the craftsman called master goldsmith hallmark and that of the title of the work called title or guarantee hallmark. 

The title mark is a guarantee of the precious metal content in the alloy, most often expressed in thousandths and thus “guarantees” the quality of the precious metal to the consumer. “If the principle of affixing hallmarks to goldsmith's works dates back to the 13th century, the guarantee legislation in its current form and the affixing of official state hallmarks dates from the end of the 18th century (1797) and has continued to evolve ever since.” (source customs.gouv.fr) It can thus indicate the origin of an object from a geographical and temporal point of view.

The trademark of the craftsman who made the object and also the serial number when it is a luxury brand are also useful elements in identifying the jewelry. 

Jewelry intended to be marketed in France must bear these hallmarks, according to French law which has its own hallmarks through the guarantee offices which affix them to the pieces. There are, however, admitted exceptions: for example jewelry created before 1838, having a weight below 3 g for gold, or those which do not support the mark of the hallmark without suffering deterioration and can be exempted from this brand. 

The hallmark can also disappear on vintage jewelry, through being worn it can fade when the mark is in contact with the skin for example, or even everyday actions can damage it.

How to recognize hallmarks?

The maker's mark is in the shape of a diamond completed by his initials, if it is oval in shape, it is a work imported from abroad.
The title hallmark can be available in different forms depending on the number of carats and the purity of the precious metal. Each precious metal has different hallmark tables.

For gold there are 5 different hallmarks, 

• The most common is 18 carat gold, i.e. 750 thousandths: Eagle head alone 

• 22 carat gold or 916 thousandths: Eagle head in profile with the number 1 under the beak 

• The most precious 24 carat gold 999 thousandths that only the Paris office can guarantee and can affix: Seahorse in profile 

• 14 carats or 585 thousandths: Scallop shell

• The lowest content: 9 carats or 375 thousandths: Clover

For'silver there are 3 different hallmarks, 

• The most common is the 925 thousandths 92%: Head of Minerva surrounded by the number 1 and the letter 

• Another rather common hallmark, 925 thousandths 80%: Head of Minerva surrounded by the number 2

• The third used when the origin is uncertain or unknown or when it is 800 thousandths is: Swan in profile 

For the platinum, there are 3 different punches,

• THE platinum the purest at 99.9%: Penguin head

• The second pure from 95 to 85%: Dog's head 

• The punch platinum less than 85% pure: Head of Mascaron 

For certain jewelry second-hand of foreign or uncertain origin:

• in gold, at least 750 thousandths: the owl

• in silver at least, 800 thousandths: the swan