The different types of setting with a precious stone

Crimp a diamond or a colored stone on a piece of jewelry is a complex task that requires the intervention of professionals specialized in this technique called setting. 

Each type of setting is custom-made to match the shape, dimensions and weight of the stone to be set. In this article, discover the particularities of each type of setting, their aesthetics, their uses, their advantages and their disadvantages.

The claw setting

The technique of claw setting involves holding the stone in a metal belt and claws (together called a “kitten”) which tightly enclose it. Thanks to this type of setting, light can easily penetrate the stone, thus highlighting its color and natural shine. 

The number of claws can vary between 2, 4, 6 or 8, the most common number being 4. This technique is commonly used in the field of jewelry to solitaire rings, especially for engagement rings, and this, across the centuries. In 1968, Richard Burton offered Elizabeth Taylor one of the largest engagement rings, set with a 33-carat Asscher-cut diamond.

Despite its lightness, this setting holds the diamond in place effectively and is used for various jewelry, including rings. It requires minimal maintenance and is easy to clean.

The closed setting

The closed setting consists of surrounding the stone with a collar, which is then hammered to hold the stone in place, while protecting it from shocks and scratches. Then, the setter comes to release it and make what is called “a fillet” using a chisel to bring shine to the collar. The bezel setting is a timeless choice and it is also one of the most resistant types of setting, because the central stone is surrounded by metal. It is an Excellent option for rings that are worn every day or for more fragile stones like emerald.

The closed setting also has several variations, such as: semi-enclosed Or half-closed, when the net does not surround the entire stone, or it can have a “pearl” finish which will bring even more relief and shine to the jewel, as we find in the collection Perlée by Van Cleef & Arpels. 

This type of crimping is theone of the oldest settings, dating back to Ancient Rome. Today, it still remains one of the oldest settings the most used in jewelry for its robustness: it surrounds the stone with metal (protecting it from possible shocks) while allowing light to pass through it through the culet to enhance its brilliance. The closed setting is therefore an Excellent option for jewelry that is worn every day, such as necklaces, bracelets, earrings and rings, especially with those set with more fragile stones such as the emerald.

The grain setting

The grain setting is reserved for small stones and involves creating grains around the stones by drilling and milling the metal. Subsequently, the setter can create a “net” around the grains, just before placing the stone. To achieve the finishing touches, he then uses a tool called “pearl” to fold the grains onto the stone and hold it in place. This setting is frequently used to create a “paving” of stones of the same size, or a “snow setting” of stones of different sizes.

Both operations consist of arranging the stones in a staggered pattern in several lines, so close to each other that they give the impression of a surface paved with gems, without any visible metal. The grain setting is also widely used to create what is called “the accompaniment” of a ring, that is to say for the small stones set on the ring on either side of the central stone. The accompaniment can be in full tour or in U-turn of the ring.

The mass setting

This type of setting gets its name from the considerable amount of metal that surrounds the stone, giving the impression that it is engulfed in it, leaving only the table of the stone visible. The mass setting consists of integrating the stone into the mass of the jewel itself, generally on a rounded surface. The setter carefully hammers metal around the edge in order to secure the stone. The mass setting is one of the most solid types of setting with the closed setting, because the stone is entirely surrounded by metal, the difference being that the mass setting does not have an opening at the back of the stone to let light through, it will therefore appear darker.

The tension setting

The tension setting consists of holding the stone in tension, as its name suggests. It is held by the pressure between two metal surfaces on either side. Upstream, the setter can dig a small hollow in each part in order to place the crown of the stone there for better security (and so that it remains immobile). The tension setting is one of the most original settings to choose for a jewel, because it gives the impression that the diamond is levitating, giving a contemporary and minimalist look to this one. However, it is important to take care of this type of setting because it can become fragile and the stone can then come loose. Indeed, the disadvantage of the tension setting is that the stone is less well protected from shocks since it is more exposed than with other types of settings.

The rail setting

The technique of rail setting involves sliding the stones between two parallel rails. This technique applies to different shapes of stones: round, oval, square or baguettes… Just like the grain setting, the rail setting is mainly chosen to set accompanying stones, particularly on wedding rings in modern style.

One of the advantages of the channel setting is that it allows diamonds or other accent stones to be set close together, which creates a continuous line of gemstones.

The barrette setting 

The bar setting is a combination of the prong setting and the channel setting. The stones are held in a bezel (round, square or baguette-shaped, depending on the stone being set) at their base, with a metal bar on either side, each with a groove engraved into the girdle of the stone. When a stone is set in the basket of a bar setting, its girdle will be firmly seated in the grooves on either side of the bezel, making this setting very secure as well as aesthetically pleasing. Like the bead and channel setting, the bar setting is also widely used to set companion stones.

The baguette or calibrated setting

This setting, more commonly used in watchmaking than in jewelry, is very similar to the rail setting, except that it is reserved for stones cut in an angular manner: rectangular or square (and especially used for baguette cutting). This type of setting is distinguished by the presence of two metal rails upstream of the stone, which can be placed perpendicular or parallel to them. This type of setting is mainly used for geometric and linear shapes, in particular for dials and watch cases. watches. 

The mysterious setting

branded Van Cleef & Arpels, the Mysterious Serti, more commonly called "invisible setting" is an emblematic know-how, secretly guarded by the Maison since 1933. This innovative technique allows for crimping precious stones giving them all the glory and not letting the metal show. 

With all these setting options, you have the opportunity to choose from a variety of styles for your jewelry on 58 Facettes.

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