SELL YOUR JEWELRY
Magazine 58F
In search of the Fifth Element
Like Luc Besson's cult film, certain jeweler-designers are inspired by the elements of our world to imagine jewelry in harmony with nature. Let's discover three creators and their world in search of meaning.
Nathalie Dmitrovic: at the heart of an intergalactic journey
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This designer, based in Marseille, offers jewelry with sculptural shapes and studded with small craters evoking different planets. “I have always been fascinated by the Moon with its light and its mysterious craters. The Moon has an incredible cyclical influence on elements of the Earth such as the tides, but also on women. Her Nébuleuse ring evokes the generous shapes of femininity, associated with the Moon. The small craters create a rhythm providing a unique surface play.
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Before discovering the art of jewelry, Nathalie Dmitrovic was a marble sculptor for 10 years. Today, she approaches this discipline in a very personal way by only creating ring-sculptures and working with the material instinctively. “On my La Scintillante ring, I randomly dig small bubbles or craters to lighten the shapes like breathing.” Nathalie Dmitrovic likes to work with gold,silver or silver platinum, but also bronze reminding her of her work as a sculptor, because she likes to tame the material.
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For the Feuille ring, she chose bronze giving a soft, sensual patina, combined with the roundness of Tahitian cultured pearls. Always curious, she has recently explored titanium to create pieces with unique shapes. Her Enlace-moi ring features a futuristic shape evoking sprawling arms. The metallic blue colored titanium is studded with blue diamonds. Luc Besson is not far away: evoking the blue diva or the final scene of Mila Jovovich embracing the hero Bruce Willis in a spaceship!
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Laurence Oppermann: from earth to sky
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From her workshop, located upstairs in Lyon, Laurence Oppermann sows seeds of happiness. This is the name she chose for her personal ring when her son was born. A small bell is attached to a simple ring while containing a precious gold nugget. The designer has declined this model into a Lovepépite ring on silver or gold to bring luck to the people who wear it like a precious little charm. Laurence Oppermann also captures earthly poetry with her Première Rosée ring. Created during an exhibition on the theme of the rainbow, the ring is adorned like fine droplets with multiple fine stones ranging from citrine yellow to bright orange spessartite garnets to mysterious amethysts.
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The Infini ring, one of its best sellers, evokes space like a breadcrumb thread wrapped around the finger. “I make this piece from a 45cm gold wire, wound by hand. Each piece is unique because the gesture is random and we cannot see the beginning or the end of the thread like a spool,” explains the designer. The ring is adorned with a diamond in keeping with the purity of the noble materials. Generally speaking, Laurence Oppermann works mainly with metal. The stones are there just to bring a burst of light or a magical spark.
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“I am fascinated by molten matter. I use ancestral techniques such as with the Mine d'Or collection, forging a shell in silver which is then worked on the inside with gold leaf. “This operation is very delicate using urination to make the gold leaf adhere, creating a real alchemy between the two precious metals. The Intime Chalice rings, forged and hammered in silver or pink gold, are adorned with black diamonds and take us to meet the divine world.
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Anaïs Rheiner: from fire to water, source of life
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From her pretty boutique in Saint-Germain-des-Près, Anaïs Rheiner especially remembers her childhood in Africa. His Swiss geologist father was called to Zimbabwe to explore gold mines. From her indelible memories was born the River of Diamonds collection which, far from the diamond falls of Hollywood, offers delicate jewelry. “In Zimbabwe, gold miners sort gold on the banks of a river with a pan that looks like a Chinese hat.
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The water, through the sand and pebbles, takes winding paths that I evoke through my gold threads, adorned with small diamonds recalling the shine of the water.” The heat of the sun is also omnipresent in Africa, but it is above all the fire and the scorched earth technique, to make the land fertile, which marked Anaïs Rheiner. “It is also the fire that I use to work my wax to create the matrix of my jewelry. With tools, I create furrows and I also use pieces of wood that I brought back from Africa to create textures.
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And when I work with cast iron, I dig hollow impressions by heating the metal with a blowtorch.” This work of irregular material brings a real sensitivity to the jewel worked instinctively and giving life to the jewel. Let's take the height with its collections of Etoile Filante and Etincelles d'Amour wedding rings evoking the incredible starry skies in Africa. Connected to gold threads, the diamonds sparkle like so many stars that can be admired from the cradle of humanity.
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Article by Kyra Brenzinger - Editor-in-Chief.
Cover photo: La Nébuleuse ring - Nathalie Dmitrovic
Photo 1: Nathalie Dmitrovic
Photo 2: La Scintillante ring - Nathalie Dmitrovic
Photo 3: Leaf Ring - Nathalie Dmitrovic
Photo 4: Laurence Oppermann
Photo 5: Infinity Ring - Laurence Oppermann
Photo 6: Intimate Chalice Ring - Laurence Oppermann
Photo 7: Anaïs Rheiner
Photo 8: Rivière de Diamants Ring - Anaïs Rheiner
Photo 9: Shooting Star Alliance - Anaïs Rheiner